Things to do in Mafia Island
And where to stay, the best time to visit, what a day costs, and the traps to skip.
Best time to visit Mafia Island
• a note or something on ✦ an occasion worth the trip
Dry season and the best all round months, with turtle hatching June to September and humpbacks from late August.
Whale shark season opens and outer reef diving runs, with short rains making November the most changeable month.
Hot, dry and prime whale shark months at peak reliability, with flights and lodges selling out.
Long rains peaking in April and May, rough seas, some lodge closures and the highest malaria risk.
What's on
- Whale Shark Season October to March, peak November to February
Whale sharks feed at the surface off Kilindoni and snorkel boats run each morning in season.
- Turtle Hatching Season June to September
Guided SeaSense hatching visits on Juani Island, timed to actual nests and never guaranteed.
- Humpback Whale Migration late August to early October
Humpbacks pass through the Mafia channel and boat watching trips run when whales are present.
Best things to do in Mafia Island
Chole Island
A tiny old island capital of ruins, boatbuilding and baobabs, with flying foxes streaming out at dusk.
Kua Ruins
Ruins of a medieval Swahili town in Juani forest, paired with a swim in the tidal Kua Lagoon nearby.
Kilindoni
Mafia's working capital, with its dhow harbour, market and everyday island life in one morning walk.
Ras Kisimani
A fishing village at the island's south western tip, reached by village roads, for a quiet beach day.
Utende Beach
The tidal Chole Bay lodge beach, a calm high tide swim and the launch point for dive boats and dhows.
Where to stay in Mafia Island
Utende and Chole Island
diving, snorkelling and Chole Bay
Inside the marine park with the dive centres and bay at hand, with the daily park fee on top of the room.
Kilindoni and the west coast
whale sharks, the airport and lower prices
Outside the park by the main town and airstrip, with Chole Bay reached by a cross island transfer.
Think twice about
- Chole Bay beaches at low tide for swimming
The tide retreats far over sand and seagrass flats and shore swimming stops. Swim at high tide, on the reef or on sandbank trips instead.
- Mafia Island roads after dark
Unlit, unpaved roads with no public transport. Move at night only by lodge arranged car, or not at all.
Best restaurants in Mafia Island
Kinasi Lodge restaurant
The top lodge table at Utende for seafood and Swahili dishes, for outside diners by arrangement.
Afro Beach Bungalows
A Kilindoni beach restaurant for Swahili prawns, coconut rice and a Saturday sunset barbecue.
Big Blu Restaurant & Bar
The Utende dive resort restaurant and beach bar, serving locally inspired meals over Chole Bay.
Hippopotamus Food Point
Kilindoni's best reviewed local kitchen, for African dishes and barbecue at local prices.
Swahili Local Restaurants
Utende's local kitchens for grilled fish, coconut rice and pilau at the lowest price band.
Outdoor things to do in Mafia Island
Whale shark snorkelling off Kilindoni
Snorkel beside whale sharks feeding at the surface off Kilindoni, in season from October to March.
Mafia Island Diving
Small group dhow diving from Utende, from sheltered Chole Bay coral gardens to Kinasi Pass walls.
Chole Bay
Boat snorkelling over the sheltered coral gardens of Chole Bay, the best value water day on Mafia.
Juani Island
Watch protected turtle hatchlings run for the sea on Juani's east coast, June to September.
Humpback whale watching, Mafia Island
Boat trips to watch migrating humpback whales in the Mafia channel, August to October.
Funguni Sandbank
A white sandbank that emerges at low tide in Chole Bay, reached by dhow for swimming and a picnic.
Best hotels in Mafia Island
Pole Pole Bungalows
Seven eco bungalows on Chole Bay with full board food, a pool and a deliberately slow pace.
Chole Mjini Treehouse Lodge
Treehouses in ancient baobabs among Chole's ruins, with lamp lit dinners and bats at dusk.
Kinasi Lodge
A comfortable plantation lodge over Chole Bay with a pool and its own dive operation at Utende.
Butiama Beach Lodge
Thirteen west coast bungalows outside the park, ten minutes from the airstrip, by the whale sharks.
Meremeta Lodge
A small budget lodge at Utende with bikes and breakfast, keeping divers in the right base cheaply.
Is Mafia Island expensive? What a day costs
| Budget | TZS 180,000 a person |
|---|---|
| Classic | TZS 500,000 a person |
| Splurge | TZS 1,100,000 a person |
A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room
What to book ahead
- Whale shark snorkelling off Kilindoni: a few days ahead
- Mafia Island Diving: a few days ahead
- Chole Bay: a few days ahead
- Juani Island: a few days ahead
- Humpback whale watching, Mafia Island: a few days ahead
- Funguni Sandbank: a few days ahead
- Pole Pole Bungalows: weeks ahead
- Chole Mjini Treehouse Lodge: weeks ahead
- Book flights and the small Chole Bay lodges weeks to months ahead for the dry season and the December to February whale shark peak.
- Book whale shark boats, diving and turtle hatching visits through your lodge or dive centre, timed to tides and nests.
Is Mafia Island safe?
- Take Dar es Salaam level care on the mainland leg, use only licensed or lodge arranged taxis and boats, and keep valuables out of sight.
- Mafia is a high risk malaria island, so take prophylaxis, use repellent and nets, and test any fever promptly.
- Medical care on Mafia is basic and serious cases are evacuated to Dar es Salaam, so carry evacuation and diving insurance.
Mafia Island travel tips: tourist traps to skip
- Do not expect Zanzibar style beach clubs, all tide swimming or a restaurant row on Mafia.
- Do not board overloaded boats or boats without lifejackets, and do not use whale shark operators who allow touching.
Getting around Mafia Island: public transport and more
- Fly from Dar es Salaam in about 30 to 45 minutes, then take a lodge transfer of about 30 to 45 minutes to Utende.
- Use lodge arranged cars, bajaji and boats on the island, agreeing every fare and excursion inclusion first.
Who Mafia Island suits
| Solo travellers | Good |
|---|---|
| Groups of friends | Good |
| Couples | Great |
| Bachelor parties | Not ideal |
| Families | Good |
| Bachelorette parties | Not ideal |
Make Mafia Island your trip
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