Things to do in Kerala Backwaters
And where to stay, the best time to visit, what a day costs, and the traps to skip.
Best time to visit Kerala Backwaters
• a note or something on ✦ an occasion worth the trip
October to March is the main season: calm water, clear skies, 24-31C on the coast. December to February is peak; book houseboats 3-4 weeks ahead.
June to September is the southwest monsoon: heavy rain, lush scenery, 15-20% cheaper boats, and the traditional Ayurveda season. Avoid sailing in very heavy rain.
April and May are hot and humid with shoulder prices and fewer crowds; keep sightseeing short and early.
What's on
- Nehru Trophy Boat Race second Saturday of August
Snake-boat races on Punnamada Lake; book Alleppey stays well ahead.
- Onam August-September
Kerala's harvest festival: feasts, flower carpets and boat races across the region.
- Kochi-Muziris Biennale December to March
Contemporary art across Fort Kochi venues; check edition dates before timing a trip.
Best things to do in Kerala Backwaters
Chinese Fishing Nets
Cantilevered fishing nets still worked by hand; go at sunset for the haul.
St. Francis Church
The oldest European church in India, a plain and atmospheric 1500s interior.
Kerala Kathakali Centre
Kathakali dance-drama; arrive at 5pm to watch the makeup go on.
Mattancherry Palace
A 16th-century palace holding Kerala's finest Ramayana mural paintings.
Paradesi Synagogue
The 1568 synagogue at the heart of Jew Town's spice and antique lanes.
Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary
Dawn birding on Vembanad's shore; November to February is the peak.
Ambalappuzha Sree Krishna Temple
A great Vaishnava temple famous for its palpayasam milk porridge.
Hill Palace Museum
Kerala's largest archaeological museum in the Cochin royals' former home.
Where to stay in Kerala Backwaters
Fort Kochi
the first 2 nights and the gateway
The heritage quarter: colonial streets, the fishing nets, the cafes, the Kathakali theatre, all walkable. Busiest tourist pocket in season; lanes are noisy with tour groups by day.
Alleppey
boarding the houseboat and the canals
The houseboat capital: 500+ boats, the most routes, the liveliest village canals. Base here the night before you board. The town itself is ordinary; the water is the point.
Kumarakom
quiet water, the bird sanctuary and lake resorts
The calmer east shore of Vembanad: fewer boats, more curated houseboats, the region's best resorts. Higher prices across the board.
Mararikulam (Marari)
the beach end of the trip
A fishing-village coast 30-40 minutes from Alleppey. A do-nothing base, which is the point after the boats.
On a houseboat
the night itself
One or two nights aboard is the centrepiece. Check AC hours on deluxe boats (usually 9pm-6am), confirm inclusions in writing, and board at noon for the full cruising day.
Think twice about
- Kochi city (Ernakulam) as a leisure base
The mainland city is offices, malls and traffic. Cross to Fort Kochi or Mattancherry for character; return to Ernakulam only for trains.
- Alleppey town-centre hotels for the backwater experience
Town hotels put you on roads, not water. If the point of the stop is the backwaters, sleep in a lakeside resort or on a boat.
- Kollam as a first-timer base
The long Ashtamudi cruises suit slow multi-day trips; first visits get more, with less effort, from Alleppey or Kumarakom.
Best restaurants in Kerala Backwaters
Malabar Junction
Refined Kerala seafood at Malabar House; the fish pollichathu is the signature.
Fort House Restaurant
Waterfront tables and reliable seafood a short walk from the fishing nets.
Hotel Seagull
A long-running waterfront pick for fish curry with a view.
Fusion Bay
Vegetarian Kerala food done well, a counterweight to all the seafood.
Rasoi Fort Kochi
North and South Indian staples in a busy, dependable dining room.
Tharavadu Restaurant
The Casino Hotel's Kerala restaurant; come for the sadya-style spreads.
Ginger House
Lunch among antiques on the waterfront after the palace and synagogue.
Kayees Rahmathulla Cafe
Kochi-style biryani at the no-frills Mattancherry institution.
Best coffee in Kerala Backwaters
Kashi Art Cafe
An art-gallery cafe; the cold coffee and cakes are the Fort Kochi ritual.
Sri Krishna Cafe
Masala dosa and filter coffee at local prices near the Jain temple.
Outdoor things to do in Kerala Backwaters
Munroe Island
Canoe rides through narrow canals and village life, far from the fleets.
Vembanad Lake
India's longest lake; the sunset over open water is the region's best free show.
Pathiramanal Island
A boat-only island in the lake, known for its birdlife.
Alleppey Beach
The town beach with a pier and lighthouse; good for a sunset walk.
Marari Beach
A quiet fishing-village coast; where the trip exhales after the boats.
Athirapally Falls
The region's big waterfall, at its fullest in and after the monsoon.
Best hotels in Kerala Backwaters
Brunton Boatyard
CGH Earth's waterfront heritage hotel; harbour views from every room.
Old Harbour Hotel
A 300-year-old Dutch-Portuguese boutique hotel with a quiet courtyard.
Malabar House
A small art-filled boutique on Parade Road, home to Malabar Junction.
Lemon Tree Vembanad Lake Resort, Alleppey
A lakeside resort with backwater views, a calm base near town.
Punnamada Resort
Lakeside villas on Punnamada Lake, good for a pre-boat night.
Coconut Lagoon
Heritage villas from old Kerala homes, reached by boat, with a naturalist.
Taj Kumarakom Resort and Spa
A colonial bungalow on the lake with plunge-pool villas.
Kumarakom Lake Resort
Twenty-five acres of villas with carved ceilings and an ayurvedic spa.
Is Kerala Backwaters expensive? What a day costs
| Budget | ₹3,000 a person |
|---|---|
| Classic | ₹7,500 a person |
| Splurge | ₹16,000 a person |
| No limits | ₹35,000 a person |
A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room
What to book ahead
- Houseboats for December-February: book 3-4 weeks ahead, especially Christmas/New Year and weekends, when rates can double.
- Confirm in writing what the boat price includes: meals, cruising hours, AC hours, GST, and the crew.
- Kathakali shows need no advance booking, but arrive by 5pm for the makeup session and a seat.
- Ayurveda courses at serious centres need advance booking; walk-in beach massages are not the same thing.
Is Kerala Backwaters safe?
- Kerala is among India's calmest states for travellers; the risks here are water and weather, not crime. On any boat confirm life jackets, a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit and displayed emergency numbers. Emergency: 112. Kerala tourism helpline: 0477 2339435.
Kerala Backwaters travel tips: tourist traps to skip
- Deluxe houseboats where bedroom AC runs 9pm-6am only: fine in winter, sticky in April-May. Ask before booking.
- Rates that seem too good to be true: a Rs 4,000 overnight boat usually means a poorly maintained vessel.
- 'Ayurvedic massage' touts on the beaches: use licensed centres or your hotel's spa.
- The 1st of every month is a dry day in Kerala: bars do not serve and boats carry no alcohol.
- Houseboats in very heavy monsoon rain: a good operator will tell you when not to sail.
Getting around Kerala Backwaters: public transport and more
- Cochin International Airport (COK) is the gateway: about 1-1.5 hours to Fort Kochi, 1.5 hours to Alleppey, 1.5 hours to Kumarakom via Kottayam.
- Alleppey to Kumarakom is about an hour by road; houseboats also run between the two on multi-night routes.
- Trains connect Ernakulam, Alleppey and Kayamkulam cheaply; book sleeper or chair car ahead in season.
- Local ferries cross the backwaters and reach some islands; your hotel or houseboat operator arranges pickups.
- Within Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, walk or take an auto-rickshaw; agree the fare first.
Who Kerala Backwaters suits
| Solo travellers | Good |
|---|---|
| Groups of friends | Great |
| Couples | Great |
| Bachelor parties | OK |
| Families | Great |
| Bachelorette parties | Good |
Make Kerala Backwaters your trip
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