Things to do in Troyes
And where to stay, the best time to visit, what a day costs, and the traps to skip.
Best time to visit Troyes
• a note or something on ✦ an occasion worth the trip
Best months: warm enough for the lake and cycling, full scene open, no peak crowds.
Connoisseur month: harvest energy, crane migration beginning and the Nuits de Champagne festival.
Lake season proper with supervised swimming and all watersports, but Nigloland is at its busiest.
Foire de Mars funfair weeks and the first terrace days.
Christmas lights and market, short days and long lunches.
Worst months: the lake is dormant, Nigloland is closed and some hours reduce, though prices are lowest.
What's on
- Nuits de Champagne October, about a week
Troyes signature chanson festival filling venues and cathedral quarter hotels, book rooms early.
- Foire de Mars March, several weeks
One of France great traditional funfairs taking over the boulevards, joyful and very local.
- Marche de Noel Late November to late December
Christmas chalets, Bouchon illuminations and a giant advent calendar on the town hall facade.
Best things to do in Troyes
Le Coeur de Troyes
The illuminated heart on the canal quay anchors a two hour walk through the cork shaped old town.
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Saint-Paul
Bay after bay of stained glass from the 13th to the 19th century, plus a free treasury.
Ruelle des Chats
A cobbled medieval alley where the leaning timbered houses almost touch above your head.
Maison de l'Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière
Twelve thousand hand tools displayed as sculpture in a Renaissance mansion, Troyes best museum.
Cité du Vitrail
Nine centuries of stained glass shown at eye level in natural light, ending in a restored chapel.
Apothicairerie de l'Hôtel Dieu le Comte
An 18th century hospital pharmacy preserved intact, lined with painted jars and wooden drug boxes.
Musée Vauluisant
The hosiery museum tells how Troyes invented French stocking making, inside a 16th century mansion.
Musée d'Art Moderne
The Levy collection of Fauves and Cubists opposite the cathedral, freshly reopened after renovation.
Where to stay in Troyes
Cathedral Quarter
couples and splurge stays
The quiet stone built east of the Bouchon by the cathedral, home to the two finest medieval house hotels.
Central Bouchon
first visits and food focused stays
The commercial and restaurant heart of the old town, with the flagship MGallery and best mid range hotels.
Boulevard Ring
budget stays and drivers
The practical southern edge of the old town with reliable chain hotels, easier parking and quick road access.
Rouilly-Sacey and the Lake
golfers and summer lake stays
A forest and lake base 25 minutes east that trades old town sightseeing for golf, spa and water.
Best restaurants in Troyes
Le Jardin
Troyes special occasion table, a small seasonal kitchen with a garden terrace by the old lanes.
La Table de François
Classical haute French cooking of Aube produce in the cathedral quarter, with a serious wine list.
Aux Crieurs de Vin
The soul of Troyes eating, a wine bar bistro serving the city definitive andouillette.
Chez Félix
A big garden terrace bistro on the Ruelle des Chats, the highest volume quality room in town.
L'Illustré
A quirky, art filled bistro near the market with creative meat and fish cooking for groups.
Le Damier
A quiet residents favourite a few minutes from the tourist streets, with a standout lunch menu.
Aux Oiseaux de Passage
A consistently well rated kitchen that suits mixed groups, families and second night dinners.
La Fille du Potager
A vegetable forward, good value restaurant with real vegetarian and vegan options in Troyes.
Outdoor things to do in Troyes
Vélovoie des Lacs
A flat 42 km greenway from Troyes along canals to the lake beaches, ride as much as you want.
Lac d'Orient
A vast forest lake with sandy beaches, 300 km of trails and famous crane migrations.
Port de Mesnil-Saint-Père
The lake marina and sailing school base for dinghy, windsurf, kayak and pedal boat hire.
Maison du Canoë
Paddle the gentle Seine through Troyes itself, seeing the old town from water level.
Les Riceys
The largest champagne commune, home of the rare Rose des Riceys and dozens of family growers.
Montgueux
A single chalk hill of chardonnay above Troyes, walked and tasted in one easy half day.
Du Côté des Renoir
Walk Renoir village circuit linking his house, studio, church and grave in the Cote des Bar.
Nigloland
A garden landscaped family theme park with serious coasters and deep rides for small children.
Best hotels in Troyes
La Maison de Rhodes Hôtel & Spa
A five star house in 12th and 15th century buildings around cobbled courtyards by the cathedral.
Le Champ des Oiseaux Hôtel & Spa
The romantic sister house to Maison de Rhodes, with a garden and small spa by the cathedral.
La Licorne Hotel & Spa Troyes - MGallery Collection
The modern flagship hotel with spa and canal views, luxury without medieval quirks.
Best Western Premier Hôtel de la Poste & Spa
A reliable 32 room charm hotel with a spa in the middle of everything by the town hall.
Hôtel Le Relais Saint Jean
A half timbered hotel on a pedestrian street, 23 individually decorated rooms in the old town.
Mercure Troyes Centre
The dependable Accor mid ranger just south of the centre, best for drivers who value predictability.
ibis Troyes Centre
Seventy seven modern rooms five minutes on foot from the historic centre at ibis prices.
B&B HOTEL Troyes Centre
A modern budget chain hotel on the boulevard ring, walkable to the centre in under ten minutes.
Is Troyes expensive? What a day costs
| Budget | €70 a person |
|---|---|
| Classic | €140 a person |
| Splurge | €300 a person |
A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room
What to book ahead
- Maison Rachi: a few days ahead
- Port de Mesnil-Saint-Père: a few days ahead
- Maison du Canoë: a few days ahead
- Les Riceys: a few days ahead
- Montgueux: a few days ahead
- Nigloland: a few days ahead
- Golf de la Forêt d'Orient: a few days ahead
- Golf de Troyes la Cordelière: weeks ahead
- Book Le Jardin and La Table de Francois days ahead for weekend dinners.
- Book Maison Rachi tours a day or more ahead, especially for English.
- Grower visits in the Cote des Bar and Montgueux are commonly appointment only, so arrange several days ahead.
- Book Golf de Troyes la Cordeliere tee times and Nigloland peak date tickets in advance.
Is Troyes safe?
- Troyes is calm and low crime, with no district in or around the centre that requires avoidance.
- Watch bags in the outlet centres and the market on busy Saturdays.
- The station forecourt feels drab rather than dangerous, and the emergency number is 112.
Troyes travel tips: tourist traps to skip
- Outlet prices outside the sales can equal regular retail, especially at Marques Avenue, so go for specific brands.
- Terraces on the prettiest lanes charge for the view, while Le Damier a few minutes away is better value.
- Do not order andouillette blind: it is a funky tripe sausage and an acquired taste.
- A rushed two hour stop misses the point of a city built for slowness, glass light and long lunches.
Getting around Troyes: public transport and more
- Walk the Bouchon, which is about 25 minutes end to end and mostly pedestrianised or calm.
- Paris is about 1.5 hours by direct train from Gare de l'Est, and Troyes station is a 10 minute walk from the centre.
- For excursions a car is best: the lake is 25 minutes, Montgueux 20, and Les Riceys, Essoyes and Nigloland about 40.
- Park on the boulevard ring at roughly 6 euros a day and do not try to park in the medieval lanes.
Who Troyes suits
| Solo travellers | Good |
|---|---|
| Groups of friends | Good |
| Couples | Great |
| Bachelor parties | Not ideal |
| Families | Good |
| Bachelorette parties | OK |
Make Troyes your trip
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