Things to do in Ax-les-Thermes
And where to stay, the best time to visit, what a day costs, and the traps to skip.
Best time to visit Ax-les-Thermes
• a note or something on ✦ an occasion worth the trip
Best ski season, fullest operation, February holidays are busiest and priciest.
Dead shoulder, lifts closed and many attractions and restaurants shut.
Pleasant early summer edge, long days and St Johns Day, lifts only partly running.
Best summer hiking and biking, full programme, markets and festivals.
Quiet good early autumn, most summer offers wind down by the end of the month.
Deadest period, short days and minimal resort operation, worst for a resort holiday.
Ski season opens early December, festive but early snow can be variable.
What's on
- Fête de la Saint-Jean 23-24 June
Town celebrations centred on the Bassin des Ladres and its ash and bathing tradition.
- Snow Gay early to mid March, dates vary
Winter pride festival filling the slopes, bars and casino for about a week.
- Festival des Saveurs late July, dates vary
Food festival celebrating Ariege producers and mountain cooking in high summer.
- Grands Chemins late July, dates vary
High altitude street arts programme of theatre, circus, dance, music and film.
- UltrAriège Trail summer, dates vary by year
Mountain trail running event based around Ax bringing runners to the summer trails.
Best things to do in Ax-les-Thermes
Les Bains du Couloubret
The essential Ax soak, with indoor and outdoor thermal pools, saunas and hammams in one large centre.
Bassin des Ladres
Free medieval stone basin in the main square where everyone dangles their feet in hot spring water.
Bassin de la Basse
The quieter second public foot bath, cooler and more sheltered than the famous Ladres basin.
Casino JOA Ax-les-Thermes
Small friendly casino with slots, tables, a sports bar and the latest closing time in town.
Église Saint-Vincent
Modest mountain parish church on the main square, best as part of an old town wander.
Rocher de la Vierge
Short steep climb to the best free viewpoint over the town, the rivers and the gondola line.
Marché d'Ax-les-Thermes
Lively country market for Ariege cheese, charcuterie, honey and the best picnic in the valley.
Patinoire d'Ax-les-Thermes
Cheap municipal ice rink that saves wet days and gives non skiers a proper winter activity.
Where to stay in Ax-les-Thermes
Town Centre: Promenade Paul Salette, Place du Breilh and the Gondola Foot
first trip, all round base, no car
Baths, casino, market, restaurants and gondola all within a ten minute walk.
Gondola Foot and Self-Catering Quarter: Camp de Granou and the South Edge
families and groups who cook, longer stays
Large apartments near the gondola for space and price per head, still in town.
Plateau de Bonascre (Ax-Bonascre, 1,400 m)
peak season ski families wanting door to slope access
True ski in, ski out convenience in season, very quiet with little open outside it.
Town Edge Riverside
budget summer stays and campervans
Town access without town hotel prices, in a green riverside setting.
Think twice about
- Plateau de Bonascre outside the ski season
Near empty plateau with most businesses shut and no easy link to town dinners, baths or shops.
- N20 through road and station edge strip in town
Safe but the noisiest sleep in town due to Andorra traffic including lorries and Saturday flows.
- Pas de la Case in Andorra as a base for Ax
Border queues, pass weather and customs make it a frustrating base for a holiday in Ax.
Best restaurants in Ax-les-Thermes
Le Chalet
The most refined kitchen in Ax, a river view dining room for a special mountain dinner.
Casa Mauricio
The most proven all round restaurant in town, French and Mediterranean food for mixed groups.
Le Patio
Small room cooking fresh regional dishes, the lighter and highest rated table in town.
Au Canon
Inventive neo bistrot by the Ladres basin whose recent cooking draws strong local praise.
Le Comptoir des Négociants
Wine bar bistro for a serious drinks list, onion soup and an aperitif that becomes dinner.
Le Terminus
Quiet, well judged French cooking with loyal regulars and fair prices near the station side.
Lou Cantou
Cosy log cabin restaurant on the plateau, the best table for skiers sleeping at Bonascre.
Chez Mateo
Popular cheap address for pizza and takeaway that feeds tired skiers quickly and well.
Outdoor things to do in Ax-les-Thermes
Ax 3 Domaines
The largest ski area in Ariege, three linked sectors from forested Bonascre to high Campels.
Bike Park Ax 3 Domaines
Lift served summer downhill and enduro riding from the Saquet plateau back toward town.
Plateau de Beille
Huge sunny Nordic plateau with cross country trails, snowshoeing, biathlon and vast views.
Le Chioula
Quiet forested Nordic area near Ax for gentle cross country skiing and snowshoe walks.
Réserve Nationale d'Orlu
Protected valley of river, forest and marmot pastures leading to the En Beys lake and refuge.
La Maison des Loups
Forest wolf park with several packs, viewing platforms and a feeding time worth planning around.
Akrobranch d'Orlu
Large treetop and via ferrata park above waterfalls, with zip lines over the Orlu canyon.
Bureau des Guides des Pyrénées Ariégeoises
State qualified local guides for ski touring, canyoning, climbing, fatbike and mountaineering.
Best hotels in Ax-les-Thermes
Mercure Ax Les Thermes
The most predictable and best serviced hotel in town, the closest thing Ax has to luxury.
Résidence Le Grand Tétras
Thermal residence by the baths with apartments and its own relaxation space for residents.
Hôtel Bellevue
Traditional family run hotel with a restaurant and terrace at the cheap end of the market.
Le P'tit Montagnard
Simple rooms above a famous mountain restaurant, for rolling downstairs to a fondue.
Résidence Pierre & Vacances Les Trois Domaines
Best known town residence beside the gondola, with family apartments and a seasonal pool.
Domaine de la Vallée d'Ax
Chalet style residence on the quiet south edge, spacious apartments and a heated outdoor pool.
Lagrange Vacances Les Chalets d'Ax
Good value chalet apartments with mountain views, a sauna and free on site parking.
Résidence Goélia Les Balcons d'Ax
Functional plateau apartments for the cheapest ski in, ski out sleep in peak season.
Is Ax-les-Thermes expensive? What a day costs
| Budget | €70 a person |
|---|---|
| Classic | €130 a person |
| Splurge | €240 a person |
A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room
What to book ahead
- Les Bains du Couloubret: a few days ahead
- Ax 3 Domaines: a few days ahead
- Bike Park Ax 3 Domaines: a few days ahead
- La Maison des Loups: a few days ahead
- Akrobranch d'Orlu: a few days ahead
- Bureau des Guides des Pyrénées Ariégeoises: weeks ahead
- Grotte de Lombrives: a few days ahead
- Le Chalet: a few days ahead
- Book stays months ahead for February holidays and the first weeks of August.
- Book Friday and Saturday dinners the day before, Le Chalet earlier.
- Book guides, En Beys refuge beds, Lombrives English tours and spa treatments ahead.
- Collect hire skis the evening before a Saturday start and buy passes online.
Is Ax-les-Thermes safe?
- Emergency number is 112 and Ax itself is a low crime small town.
- Treat off piste and freerando areas as avalanche terrain and hire a guide.
- Carry chains or winter tyres for the Bonascre, Beille and Envalira roads.
- Start summer hikes early, carry extra water and descend before afternoon storms.
Ax-les-Thermes travel tips: tourist traps to skip
- Shoulder season bargains when lifts, Orlu parks and many restaurants are closed.
- The Saturday Andorra run, with border queues and strict customs allowances.
- Peak hour Couloubret on wet February Saturdays, sublime at quieter times.
- Judging the best hotel and restaurant in town against capital city luxury.
Getting around Ax-les-Thermes: public transport and more
- Walk the centre, everything key is within fifteen minutes on foot.
- Use the Toulouse to Latour-de-Carol train, with Skirail and summer lift pass deals.
- Free seasonal shuttles link Ax, Savignac, the station and the gondola.
- A car is needed in practice for Beille, the Chioula and Pas de la Case.
Who Ax-les-Thermes suits
| Solo travellers | Good |
|---|---|
| Groups of friends | Good |
| Couples | Great |
| Bachelor parties | Not ideal |
| Families | Great |
| Bachelorette parties | Not ideal |
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