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Greece · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Thessaloniki, splurging

Byzantine history, serious fish dinners, and coffee worth travelling for.

This is Thessaloniki for people who eat well, sleep well, and spend freely on the right things. The city rewards that instinct: the food scene is one of Greece's most underrated, the Byzantine monuments are genuinely staggering, and the waterfront sets a mood that few Mediterranean cities can match. Three days cover the centre, the walls and the Upper Town, and a slow day on the gulf.

3 days, 15 stopsAbout €300 a person a dayStay in Aristotelous Square / Leoforos Nikis waterfront

Day 1: Ladadika, the centre, and a fish dinner

The day opens with the city's iconic custard pastry, moves through Sephardic history and a UNESCO basilica, and closes at the city's finest fish table.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Trigona Elenidis

    Coffee · $

    Start with Thessaloniki's iconic trigona, crisp syrup-soaked filo filled with custard cream, the pastry locals carry in boxes.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Agios Dimitrios Church

    Sights

    The city's patron saint's basilica, with early mosaics upstairs and a crypt built over Roman baths below.

    Map
  3. 10:30 AM

    Jewish Museum Thessaloniki

    Sights · $

    Sephardic Salonica from 1492 to the 1943 deportations, in one of the few Jewish buildings left.

    Map
  4. 12:30 PM

    Mourga

    Eat · $$$

    Small plates of seafood meze near Agia Sofia; order what came in that morning and a carafe of white.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Epta Thalasses

    Eat · $$$

    Fresh-fish special-occasion restaurant, the upscale fish table locals book for anniversaries. Book a few days ahead.

    Map

Day 2: Walls, Rotunda, waterfront

Heptapyrgion and the Trigonion Tower at the top of town, lunch at Cinari, the Rotunda, a sunset walk to the Umbrellas, then seafood at Marea Sea Spirit.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Heptapyrgion (Yedi Kule)

    Sights

    Byzantine fortress at the top of the walls, a prison until 1989; climb the ramparts. Closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  2. 10:45 AM

    Trigonion Tower

    Outdoors

    Round tower on the eastern walls; the terrace looks over the city to the gulf and, on clear days, Olympus.

    Map
  3. 1:00 PM

    Cinari

    Eat · $$

    Named for the plane tree outside; an Upper Town taverna for grilled meats, horta and house wine.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    The Rotunda + Arch of Galerius + Galerian complex

    Sights · $

    Galerius's 4th-century rotunda with gold mosaics in the dome, then the carved arch below. Closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  5. 5:00 PM

    Zongolopoulos Umbrellas

    Outdoors

    Walk the Nea Paralia promenade from the White Tower to Zongolopoulos's steel umbrellas at sunset.

    Map
  6. 8:30 PM

    Marea Sea Spirit

    Eat · $$$

    Modern Greek seafood near the water: marinated anchovies, sea bream carpaccio and shrimp orzo.

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Day 3: The gulf, the waterfront, and Cretan cooking

A semi-private catamaran with Olympus on the horizon leads into an Ottoman landmark, a world-class Byzantine museum, and a ten-table Cretan dinner worth every minute of the booking effort.

  1. 10:30 AM

    Sailing the Thermaic Gulf

    Outdoors · $$$

    Semi-private catamaran cruise with swim stops and Olympus on the horizon, lunch is included aboard, covering the 12:30 slot.

    Map
  2. 4:00 PM

    Museum of Byzantine Culture Μουσείο Βυζαντινού Πολιτισμού

    Sights

    Byzantine icons, mosaics and early Christian tomb paintings, a short walk from the White Tower.

    Map
  3. 9:00 PM

    Deka Trapezia

    Eat · $$$

    Ten-table Cretan restaurant: traditional dishes as contemporary small plates, poetic seasonal cooking. Book a few days.

    Map
  4. 10:30 PM

    Ciel

    Drinks · $$

    A last drink down the seafront towards Kalamaria, away from the centre's crowds.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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