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Greece · 3-day itinerary

Cheap things to do in Thessaloniki

Markets, Byzantine churches, seafront walks and bars that won't break you.

This is Thessaloniki for the traveller who eats where the locals eat, walks where the locals walk and spends money only when it counts. The city is unusually generous to the thrifty: its markets are free, its Byzantine churches are open, its squares are the real nightlife. Three days is enough to feel like you know the place.

3 days, 16 stopsAbout €65 a person a dayStay in Aristotelous Square / Leoforos Nikis waterfront

Day 1: Ladadika, markets and the old centre

Start with custard pastry and Ottoman-era market chaos, then let the day slow down through a Byzantine church, cheap meatballs and a square where the whole neighbourhood drinks from kiosk cans.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Trigona Elenidis

    Coffee · $

    Crisp syrup-soaked filo triangles filled with custard cream, the pastry Thessalonians carry home in boxes.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Modiano Market + Kapani Market

    Shopping

    Wander the 1920s covered Modiano food hall and the Ottoman-era Kapani market, fishmongers, spice vendors, total local chaos, all free.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Diagonios 1977

    Eat · $

    Since 1977, the benchmark cheap local: soutzoukakia (spiced meatballs in tomato) and gyros, exactly what the city eats.

    Map
  4. 2:00 PM

    Agia Sofia Church

    Sights

    8th-century Byzantine church still in use, serene presence in the shopping centre.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Charoupi

    Eat · $$

    Cretan comfort: staka cream, rich pies, meaty mushrooms, dakos, slow meats in a warm-service modern room.

    Map
  6. 9:15 PM

    Platia Navarinou Πλατεία Ναυαρίνου

    Outdoors

    Platia Navarinou is the neighbourhood's open-air living room, grab a cheap drink from a kiosk and join the locals.

    Map

Day 2: Upper Town on foot

Heptapyrgion and the Trigonion Tower above the city, the Rotunda and Arch, gyros at Mimis, a waterfront walk to the Umbrellas, then mezedes at Full tou Meze.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Heptapyrgion (Yedi Kule)

    Sights

    Byzantine fortress at the top of the walls, used as a prison until 1989; walk the ramparts. Closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Trigonion Tower

    Outdoors

    Free viewpoint on the eastern walls; the whole city and the gulf spread out below.

    Map
  3. 11:45 AM

    The Rotunda + Arch of Galerius + Galerian complex

    Sights · $

    The Arch of Galerius is free; the Rotunda behind it has gold dome mosaics and a small fee. Closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  4. 1:30 PM

    Mimis gyros

    Eat · $

    Pita gyros on Agiou Dimitriou; order pork with tzatziki, onion and tomato.

    Map
  5. 5:00 PM

    Zongolopoulos Umbrellas

    Outdoors

    Free walk along Nea Paralia from the White Tower to Zongolopoulos's steel umbrellas at sunset.

    Map
  6. 8:30 PM

    Full tou Meze

    Eat · $$

    Ladadika warehouse taverna; share a table of mezedes, croquettes and salads at fair prices.

    Map

Day 3: Seafront villas, sushi and a late bar

The morning belongs to the waterfront and its early-20th-century architecture, the afternoon to lunch near the theatre square, and the night to Ladadika and a proper local bar at closing time.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Casa Bianca

    Sights

    A pink-and-white 1913 seaside mansion built for a Jewish merchant family, now a municipal art gallery.

    Map
  2. 11:00 AM

    Villa Ahmet Kapandji Βίλλα Αχμέτ Καπαντζή

    Sights

    Stroll north along the seafront to Villa Ahmet Kapandji, a striking early-20th-century villa, free to see.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Plateia Theatrou Cafe / Bar / Restaurant Πλατεία Θεάτρου, Καφέ / Μπαρ/Εστιατόριο

    Eat · $$

    An easy café-restaurant on the square by the Royal Theatre; Greek salads, grills and a view of the White Tower.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Koi Sushi Bar

    Eat · $$

    Sushi rolls in Ladadika for a change from meze, at prices that fit the trip.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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