Things to do in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
And where to stay, the best time to visit, what a day costs, and the traps to skip.
Best time to visit Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
• a note or something on ✦ an occasion worth the trip
Best weather, warm and dry, sea swimmable, sites empty, village terraces full.
Hot, sea perfect, coast still quiet on weekdays.
Peak heat and peak crowds, with the International Festival of Carthage in the Roman theatre.
Coldest and wettest, grey sea, empty ruins as the only compensation.
Mild and quiet, good for culture and food if you pack for evenings.
Spring shoulder, Jazz a Carthage season begins, fine sightseeing weather.
What's on
- International Festival of Carthage mid July into August
Arab and international stars in the Roman Theatre of Carthage. Book headline nights early.
- Jazz a Carthage typically March to April
International jazz programme across Tunis and northern suburb venues each spring.
Best things to do in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
Byrsa Hill
The Punic citadel hill: excavated houses, the museum grounds and the panorama that explains the whole coast.
Antonine Baths
Among the largest Roman baths in the empire, full height vaulted basements on a park above the sea.
Tophet of Carthage
A shaded Punic sanctuary of stelae and urns, the most purely Punic and most debated site in Carthage.
Punic Ports
The circular war harbour still reads perfectly from the shore, with models on the island museum.
Roman Villas of Carthage
Excavated houses with mosaics in place and one rebuilt villa showing how rich Roman Carthage lived.
Roman Theatre of Carthage
A restored Roman theatre that becomes the main stage of the summer Festival of Carthage.
Saint Louis Cathedral
The white cathedral crowning Byrsa, now a cultural venue, and the landmark for the whole suburb.
Sidi Bou Said
Blue and white hill village above the gulf, best early or at dusk when the day coaches leave.
Where to stay in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
Sidi Bou Said
couples, short stays, the village at dusk
Guesthouses and small hotels on the hill, lanes and terraces on the doorstep, TGM downhill.
La Marsa
families, longer stays, eating out
TGM terminus town with the corniche, the beach and the deepest local restaurant scene on this coast.
Gammarth
resort days, golfers, families
Five star beach resorts on a strip beyond La Marsa, sights reached as day trips by taxi.
Carthage
repeat visitors with a car
Villas and rentals only among residential streets, quiet at night with nothing to walk to.
Think twice about
- Presidential palace perimeter, Carthage
A restricted security zone near Carthage Presidence station. No photographs, no stopping, comply with security staff instantly.
- West Le Kram and La Goulette port edges
Fine for a daytime fish lunch, not a base. Theft is reported at West Le Kram and there is no hotel reason to stay by the port at night.
Best restaurants in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
Restaurant Dar Zarrouk
The celebration dinner of the northern suburbs, seafood and Tunisian classics above the marina.
Au Bon Vieux Temps
The village's other famous view terrace. Keep the order simple and let the sunset do the work.
La Closerie
A villa garden restaurant the northern suburbs use for occasions, polished without a hotel dining room.
Le Chargui
A useful mid tier table inside the village, a step below the famous view terraces on price.
Bambalouni Sidi Bou Said
Hot fried dough rings dusted with sugar from main street fryers, eaten standing up like a local.
Best coffee in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
Cafe des Nattes
The historic mat floored terrace at the top of the main street. Agree every price before ordering.
Cafe des Delices
Tiered cliff terraces above the marina with the classic panorama across the gulf to Bou Kornine.
Outdoor things to do in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
Carthage to Sidi Bou Said Coastal Walk
Three to four kilometres of seafront walking that joins the ruins to the village with sea views throughout.
Sidi Bou Said Marina
The small marina below the village, with waterfront cafes and the postcard view back up the hill.
Sidi Bou Said Beach
The small local beach below the village, busy with families at summer weekends.
La Marsa Beach
The long town beach and corniche where Tunis summers, made for the sunset promenade.
Gammarth Beach Clubs
Hotel beach club day entry buys loungers, showers, service and a quieter stretch of resort sand.
Golf de Carthage
Founded in 1927, a short, tight, tree lined 18 holes played for a century of history.
The Residence Golf Course
The capital's statement course, a Robert Trent Jones II design between the salt flats and the sea.
Best hotels in Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
La Villa Bleue
The village luxury address, a small five star house with pool, spa and terraces over the gulf.
Maison Dedine
An adults only small luxury guesthouse on the sea facing edge, run like a private house.
Four Seasons Hotel Tunis
The international flagship of the Gammarth strip, domes and courtyards down to a private beach.
The Residence Tunis
The connoisseur's Gammarth choice, famous thalasso spa with the Residence golf course beside it.
Dar Said
A charming house hotel in the heart of the village, with pool, hammam and gulf views.
Dar Fatma
A tiny cliff side guesthouse known for its panoramic roof terrace over the gulf.
Movenpick Hotel Gammarth La Marsa
The mid priced way onto the Gammarth beach, a step down in gloss from the big flagships.
Hotel Bou Fares
The simple family run heart of the village cheap tier, clean rooms on a central lane.
Is Sidi Bou Said and Carthage expensive? What a day costs
| Budget | TND 200 a person |
|---|---|
| Classic | TND 450 a person |
| Splurge | TND 1,100 a person |
A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room
What to book ahead
- Golf de Carthage: a few days ahead
- The Residence Golf Course: a few days ahead
- Restaurant Dar Zarrouk: a few days ahead
- Au Bon Vieux Temps: a few days ahead
- La Closerie: a few days ahead
- La Villa Bleue: weeks ahead
- Maison Dedine: weeks ahead
- Four Seasons Hotel Tunis: weeks ahead
- Village hotels in April, May, September and October, Festival of Carthage headline nights, Dar Zarrouk at weekends, golf tee times in season.
Is Sidi Bou Said and Carthage safe?
- Never photograph the presidential palace in Carthage, police, soldiers or government buildings.
- Petty theft in crowds and on busy summer TGM trains. Police 197, ambulance 190.
Sidi Bou Said and Carthage travel tips: tourist traps to skip
- Cafe des Nattes and Cafe des Delices bills: ask and agree every price before ordering.
- Rushed one hour Carthage taxi packages sold by touts at many times the TGM plus pass cost.
Getting around Sidi Bou Said and Carthage: public transport and more
- Ride the TGM from Tunis Marine: Salammbo for the Tophet and ports, Byrsa for the hill, Hannibal for the baths and villas, then Sidi Bou Said and La Marsa.
- Between Carthage sites use yellow taxis on the meter or Bolt. The combined pass costs around 12 TND and covers the main sites all day.
Who Sidi Bou Said and Carthage suits
| Solo travellers | Good |
|---|---|
| Groups of friends | Good |
| Couples | Great |
| Bachelor parties | Not ideal |
| Families | Good |
| Bachelorette parties | Not ideal |
Make Sidi Bou Said and Carthage your trip
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