Things to do in São Luís
And where to stay, the best time to visit, what a day costs, and the traps to skip.
Best time to visit São Luís
• a note or something on ✦ an occasion worth the trip
Rainy season with heavy downpours, worst February to April, Carnival in February or March is the counterweight.
Sao Joao and Bumba Meu Boi peak, with saints days on 24, 29 and 30 June and lagoons starting at their best.
Driest and windiest months, lagoons full, best all round window for a first visit.
Hotter and quieter with lower prices, but Lencois lagoons shrink and many dry out.
What's on
- São João do Maranhão and Bumba Meu Boi June to early July, peak 24 June
UNESCO listed folk festival filling arraiais across the city nightly.
- Festa de São Pedro 29 June
Boi groups process to the Capela de Sao Pedro, with a boat procession tradition.
- Festa de São Marçal 30 June
Huge gathering of matraca Bumba Meu Boi groups in the Joao Paulo neighbourhood.
- Carnaval de São Luís February or early March, with pre Carnival in preceding weeks
Local Carnival of traditional and afro blocos, samba and reggae in the streets.
- Festejo de São José de Ribamar September
Major pilgrimage festival at the sanctuary in Sao Jose de Ribamar.
Best things to do in São Luís
Centro Histórico de São Luís
UNESCO tiled colonial streets centred on Rua Portugal, Rua do Giz and Beco Catarina Mina.
Palácio dos Leões
Free guided tour of the state palace with French period rooms and the best bay view in the centre.
Museu Casa do Maranhão
Best first museum in the city, explaining Bumba Meu Boi costumes, music and Maranhense festivals.
Centro de Cultura Popular Domingos Vieira Filho
Dense folk art collection covering festival figures, drums, lace and Afro Brazilian traditions.
Museu do Reggae Maranhão
Museum of Sao Luis reggae culture, radiola sound systems and the band Tribo de Jah.
Teatro Arthur Azevedo
Historic working theatre worth visiting for a guided tour or a local evening performance.
Mercado das Tulhas
Morning market for dried shrimp, cashews, tiquira, sweets, lace and Maranhense food stalls.
Museu da Gastronomia Maranhense
Small free museum that makes Maranhense food, cuxa and festival cooking easy to understand.
Where to stay in São Luís
Ponta d'Areia and the Península
couples and first time visitors
Sunset at the Espigao, walkable dinners and an easy ride to the centre.
Calhau and the Litorânea
families, groups and Lencois departures
Beach promenade on the doorstep and the widest restaurant choice in the city.
Centro Histórico, Praia Grande
culture focused short stays
Museums in minutes in a colonial pousada, but streets empty at night so return by ride hail.
Think twice about
- Centro Histórico de São Luís at night
Streets outside busy venues empty out, are poorly lit and are widely reported as unsafe for walking after dark.
- Deserted streets around Praia Grande and transport terminals after dark
Quiet, poorly lit blocks with visible street homelessness and drug use, best crossed by ride hail door to door.
- Quiet stretches of the Litorânea late at night
Promenade sections away from bars and barracas empty late, so do not walk them alone at night.
Best restaurants in São Luís
Cabana do Sol
Most famous traditional restaurant, known for carne de sol under hot bottled butter.
Cafofinho da Tia Dica
Best centre lunch for arroz do mar, peixada and cuxa, cooked to order so expect a wait.
Flor de Vinagreira
Relaxed centre bar restaurant for crab, fish with shrimp sauce and Maranhense plates.
Restaurante Senac
Calm training restaurant serving well executed Maranhense lunch at below famous name prices.
Casa de Juja
Small reservation only gastronomic atelier for set dinners and special occasion meals.
Armazém do Chef
Smart Calhau seafood restaurant, a strong evening choice without returning to the centre.
Landruá Mariscos
Litoranea seafood specialist for oysters, crab, shrimp and grilled fish at long lunches.
Cheiro Verde
Reliable neighbourhood restaurant for big fish, shrimp and meat lunches away from tourist rooms.
Best bars in São Luís
Bar do Nelson
Beachfront reggae institution where locals dance close and slow in Maranhense style.
Outdoor things to do in São Luís
Espigão Costeiro da Ponta d'Areia
Long bay promenade that is the city sunset ritual, with views to the centre and Alcantara.
Praia do Calhau
Widest city beach walk on the Litoranea, best for dawn runs, cycles and barraca lunches.
Lagoa da Jansen
Urban lagoon circuit for walking and paddle rental, prettiest at golden hour by the restaurants.
Alcântara
Haunting colonial town of ruined palaces reached by catamaran across Sao Marcos Bay.
Fronhas Maranhenses
Boat trip from lace making Raposa through mangroves to small dunes, oyster farm and Carima beach.
São José de Ribamar
Pilgrimage town with sanctuary, ex voto museum and a quieter beach at Panaquatira nearby.
Praia do Olho d'Água
Windy northern beach used for kitesurf lessons when trade winds pick up in the dry season.
Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses
White dunes and swimmable rain lagoons based from Barreirinhas, a multi day trip not a day trip.
Best hotels in São Luís
Hotel Luzeiros São Luís
Top sea view hotel in Ponta d Areia with pool, strong breakfast and sunset position.
Brisamar Hotel
Functional mid range hotel with pool in Ponta d Areia at an easier price than Luzeiros.
Blue Tree Premium São Luís
Full service Calhau beach hotel praised for staff, breakfast, pool and cleanliness.
Calhau Praia Hotel
Simple hotel directly on the Litoranea, bought for its position across from Calhau beach.
Litorânea Praia Hotel
Good value beach base on the liveliest Calhau stretch, close to bars and restaurants.
Pousada Portas da Amazônia
Charming colonial pousada on Rua do Giz with garden courtyard breakfast in the Reviver.
Reviver Hostel
Cheapest social way to sleep inside the UNESCO centre, with hostel basic facilities.
Is São Luís expensive? What a day costs
| Budget | R$220 a person |
|---|---|
| Classic | R$450 a person |
| Splurge | R$900 a person |
A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room
What to book ahead
- Teatro Arthur Azevedo: a few days ahead
- Alcântara: a few days ahead
- Fronhas Maranhenses: a few days ahead
- Praia do Olho d'Água: a few days ahead
- Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses: weeks ahead
- Hotel Luzeiros São Luís: weeks ahead
- Blue Tree Premium São Luís: weeks ahead
- Pousada Portas da Amazônia: a few days ahead
- Book June Sao Joao hotels months ahead
- Book Lencois transfers and tours weeks ahead for June to September
- Book Alcantara and Raposa tours days ahead
- Reserve Casa de Juja days ahead and Cabana do Sol early at weekends
Is São Luís safe?
- Do not walk the historic centre after dark, ride hail door to door
- Keep bag in front in markets and phone away between photos
- Leave passport in the hotel safe and carry a photo of it
- Stay on busy promenade stretches at sunset and ride home late
São Luís travel tips: tourist traps to skip
- City beaches are often rated unsuitable for swimming, do not pay for a swimmable beach
- Lencois as a day trip is a nineteen hour endurance day, base in Barreirinhas instead
- Get tour inclusions and fish prices in writing before paying or cooking
- Dishes for two at traditional houses usually serve three, order less first
Getting around São Luís: public transport and more
- Use Uber or 99 ride hail door to door, especially at night
- Walk the Reviver in daylight and ride between centre and beach
- Reconfirm all boat times the day before as departures follow the tide
- Shared vans to Barreirinhas leave early, reconfirm pickup the night before
Who São Luís suits
| Solo travellers | Good |
|---|---|
| Groups of friends | Great |
| Couples | Great |
| Bachelor parties | OK |
| Families | Good |
| Bachelorette parties | OK |
Make São Luís your trip
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