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Japan · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Osaka, splurging

Umeda Sky Building, Dotonbori and Shitennō-ji, with Pierre, Konoha and Sushi Atsuya.

This is Osaka for the traveller who wants the best table in the room and knows how to find it. Each day moves between a specific neighbourhood and a specific mood: slow mornings with good coffee, afternoons in design pockets and temple courtyards, evenings anchored by a reservation that earns its price. You will spend real money and not regret a single bill.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout ¥60,000 a person a dayStay in Namba / Shinsaibashi / Dotonbori edge (Minami)

Day 1: Kitashinchi and the Umeda roofline

The day opens gently in Nakazakichō over coffee and park air, builds to a tempura counter lunch at Numata, the Umeda Sky Building at dusk, then dinner at Pierre and a nightcap at Heaven Hill.

  1. 10:00 AM

    neel nakazakicho neel中崎町

    Coffee · $$

    The Kansai branch of a Tokyo café: pear-printed cups, La France tea and crisp crêpes in Nakazakichō.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Ōgimachi Park 扇町公園

    Outdoors

    Big open park on the edge of Nakazakichō; a short loop under the trees before heading into Umeda.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Numata

    Eat · $$$$

    Kitashinchi tempura counter; each piece fried and handed over one at a time, seasonal fish and vegetables.

    Map
  4. 4:30 PM

    Umeda Sky Building

    Sights · $$

    Two towers joined at the top by an open-air ring; go up for the sunset over the city and the bay.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Pierre

    Eat · $$$

    French tasting menu on the InterContinental's 20th floor, with Umeda's lights filling the windows.

    Map
  6. 10:00 PM

    heaven hill ヘブンヒル

    Drinks

    Heaven Hill bar, a Kitashinchi nightcap to close the evening before midnight.

    Map

Day 2: Chuo Ward, canal to counter

Coffee at a 1934 kissaten, America-mura's vintage shops in the morning, Dotonbori's canal in the afternoon, and Konoha's counter in the evening.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Marufuku Coffee Sennichimae Honten

    Coffee · $

    Osaka's 1934 kissaten, dark-roast drip coffee and a hotcake in a wood-panelled room; opens at 8.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    American Village アメリカ村

    Sights

    Wander America-mura's vintage boutiques and street-art squares, Osaka's coolest design and culture pocket.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Japanese Restaurant Benkay 日本料理「弁慶」 ホテル日航大阪

    Eat · $$$

    Hotel Nikko's Japanese restaurant on Midosuji; the kaiseki lunch set is the easy way in.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Dotonbori

    Sights

    Explore the neon canal and lantern-lit Edo alley of Dotonbori, best seen in the late-afternoon light before dinner.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Konoha

    Eat · $$$

    Small Japanese counter for a seasonal course; sit up front and watch each dish being finished.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Ebisu Bridge 戎橋

    Sights

    End the night on iconic Ebisu Bridge over the Dotonbori canal, cocktail in hand, Glico Man glowing across the water.

    Map

Day 3: Naniwa: market, temple, omakase

Kizu Market for a slow browse, Shitennō-ji for an hour of quiet history, and a top-rated omakase lunch at Sushi Atsuya at the centre of it all.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Heumoot Cafe

    Coffee · $$

    Top-rated coffee stop to start the day, clean and well-regarded in the neighbourhood.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Kizu Wholesale Market 大阪木津卸売市場

    Shopping

    Working wholesale market for fish, produce and pickles; come before 11, it winds down by noon. Closed Sundays.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Sushi Atsuya

    Eat · $$$

    Omakase sushi lunch at a quiet counter south of Namba; book ahead and let the chef pace it.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Shitennō-ji

    Sights · $

    Japan's oldest officially administered temple (593), pagoda, turtle pond, and a treasure hall worth an easy hour.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Rokunomiya

    Eat · $$$

    Namba Japanese dinner of seasonal small courses; ask for the counter seats.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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