Things to do in Black Forest

Best time to visit Black Forest

• a note or something on   ✦ an occasion worth the trip

• May, June and September

  Best months: green valleys, open trails, fewest visitors in May.

• July and August

  Warmest, busiest, the lakes at their best. Book everything.

• October

  Autumn colour, wine harvest in the Kaiserstuhl; good value.

• November to March

  Snow on the Feldberg, Christmas markets, spa season.

What's on

• Fasnet February

  The Alemannic carnival in the forest towns.

• Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market December

  Under the railway viaduct; tickets sell out.

• Freiburg Christmas Market December

  On the Rathausplatz.

Best things to do in Black Forest

• Triberg Waterfalls

  Triberg · $

  Germany's highest waterfalls on woodland trails; go before 11am.

• Titisee

  Titisee · Free

  The forest's largest lake; swim, boat, walk the 8 km path.

• Freiburg Minster

  Altstadt · Free

  The 13th-century Münster and the market square; a full day.

• Friedrichsbad

  Baden-Baden · $$$

  The Roman-Irish bathing ritual; the grand spa experience.

• Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Vogtsbauernhof

  Gutach · $$

  Seven original farmhouses; the best cultural stop in the region.

• Ravennaschlucht

  Hinterzarten · Free

  The gorge under the railway viaduct; the Christmas market in December.

• Mummelsee

  Hornisgrinde · Free

  Glacial lake on the High Road; combine with the plateau walk.

• Donauquelle

  Donaueschingen · Free

  The source of the Danube; a pleasant stop on the eastern edge.

Where to stay in Black Forest

• Baiersbronn

  food and walking

  The fine-dining village with valley trails; the region's priciest base.

• Titisee-Neustadt

  the lake and families

  Swimming, boats, easy driving to Triberg and Freiburg.

• Freiburg

  a city base

  The Münster and restaurants; the forest 20 minutes east.

• Baden-Baden

  spas

  The grand spa town; the indulgent add-on to a forest trip.

Think twice about

• Freiburg alone for a Black Forest trip

  It is the gateway, not the forest; a week misses the valleys.

• Titisee waterfront in high summer without a plan

  Day-trip crowds are real; stay one street back.

• A remote valley without a car

  The region is built for driving; without a car you see one valley.

Best restaurants in Black Forest

• Schwarzwaldstube

  Tonbach · $$$$

  Three stars, chef Torsten Michel; book months ahead.

• Restaurant Bareiss

  Mitteltal · $$$$

  Three stars, chef Claus-Peter Lumpp; the pilgrimage's second night.

• Restaurant 1789

  Tonbach · $$$$

  20 seats, chef Florian Stolte; the intimate Tonbach dinner.

• Köhlerstube

  Tonbach · $$$

  Black Forest classics in the wood-panelled room.

• Restaurant und Hotel Schwarzer Adler

  Kaiserstuhl · $$$$

  Starred; the 2,700-bottle wine list is the draw.

• Adler

  Häusern · $$$$

  Starred in the southern forest; the quiet counterpart.

• Café Adler

  Triberg · $$

  Famous for its Black Forest gateau; the waterfall-walk break.

• Hausbrauerei Feierling

  Seepark · $$

  Freiburg's brewery pub; house beer, beer garden, honest food.

Outdoor things to do in Black Forest

• Feldberg

  Feldberg · Free

  The highest peak; cable car or the 3-hour walk, Alpine views.

• Wutachschlucht

  Wutach · Free

  The wildest gorge walk; one-way, full day, check rain closures.

• Westweg

  Feldberg · Free

  The classic long trail; the Feldberg to Titisee day is the taste.

• Baumwipfelpfad Schwarzwald

  Bad Wildbad · $$

  Canopy walkway to a 40-metre tower; good in any weather.

• Hasenhorn Rodelbahn

  Todtnau · $$

  The 2.9 km summer toboggan run; the region's best-value adrenaline.

• Schluchsee

  Schluchsee · Free

  Bigger and quieter than Titisee; swim and cycle the shore.

• Kinzigtal-Radweg

  Kinzig valley · $

  Flat riverside cycling through half-timbered villages.

Best hotels in Black Forest

• Traube Tonbach

  Tonbach · $$$$

  The family-run grand hotel since 1789; the food village's heart.

• Hotel Bareiss

  Mitteltal · $$$$

  The Relais and Châteaux house; the polished alternative.

• Sackmann Genuss Und Spa Resort

  Baiersbronn · $$$$

  The spa-focused luxury hotel; the wellness pick.

• Treschers Schwarzwald Hotel

  Titisee · $$$$

  The grand hotel on the lake with spa and fine dining.

• Colombi Hotel

  Freiburg · $$$$

  The grand hotel by the park; the city luxury pick.

• Brenners Park-Hotel

  Lichtentaler Allee · $$$$

  The Oetker Collection grand hotel on the Allee.

Is Black Forest expensive? What a day costs

A day of food, drink, sights and getting around, before the room

What to book ahead

• Ravennaschlucht: weeks ahead
• Traube Tonbach: weeks ahead
• Hotel Bareiss: weeks ahead
• Sackmann Genuss Und Spa Resort: weeks ahead
• Treschers Schwarzwald Hotel: weeks ahead
• Colombi Hotel: weeks ahead
• Brenners Park-Hotel: weeks ahead
• Schwarzwaldstube: months ahead

• Schwarzwaldstube and Bareiss: months ahead.
• 1789 and Köhlerstube: weeks ahead.
• Ravenna Gorge Christmas market: tickets ahead; it sells out.

Is Black Forest safe?

• Gorge paths after rain; check closures. Ticks spring to autumn; check after walks. Emergency: 112.

Black Forest travel tips: tourist traps to skip

• Autobahn gift-shop cuckoo clocks; buy from a Triberg maker.
• Black Forest gateau outside the good cafés; the real thing has kirsch.
• The B500 on a summer Sunday afternoon.

Getting around Black Forest: public transport and more

• A car is the practical option; the B500 is the scenic drive. Book hire cars ahead in summer.
• The KONUS card (free with guesthouse stays) gives free local trains and buses.
• Freiburg is the rail gateway; the Höllentalbahn is scenic.

Who Black Forest suits

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