SWEARBY
Italy · 3-day itinerary

Luxury things to do in Venice

The Doge's Palace and Ca' Rezzonico, dinner at Quadri and Glam, lunch on Burano.

This is Venice for people who want the real version: the seafood lunch every serious food traveller talks about, dinners worth the flight alone, and a Burano morning before the day-trippers arrive. It suits anyone who prefers a palazzo bar to a spritz in a campo and has no interest in choosing between the Doge's Palace and a proper tasting menu.

3 days, 15 stopsStay in Dorsoduro

Day 1: San Polo, San Marco, the big table

Coffee at Caffè del Doge, Palazzo Fortuny, seafood at Carampane, the Doge's Palace, then Quadri on Piazza San Marco and the Gritti's canal terrace.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Caffè del Doge

    Coffee

    Venice's best specialty coffee roaster, right in San Polo, the ideal first stop out the door.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Museo Fortuny

    Sights

    Museo Fortuny: the great designer's Gothic palazzo-studio, hauntingly atmospheric.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Trattoria Antiche Carampane

    Eat · $$$

    A hard-to-find San Polo trattoria for lagoon seafood; order the fried moeche or the spider crab in season.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Doge's Palace

    Sights

    Doge's Palace: the grandest monument in Venice, unmissable on day one, a short walk south from lunch.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Quadri

    Eat

    The Alajmo family's upstairs room above Piazza San Marco; book a window over the square.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    The Gritti Terrace

    Drinks · $$$$

    The Gritti Terrace: legendary Grand Canal terrace bar, the city's most glamorous nightcap, close-in by water taxi.

    Map

Day 2: Frari, Ca' Rezzonico, Glam

The Frari's Titians, lunch at Anice Stellato, Ca' Rezzonico's palace rooms, then Enrico Bartolini's Glam on the Grand Canal and a drink at la sete.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Panificio Crosera

    Coffee

    A neighbourhood bakery by San Canciano; get a warm pastry or a slice of focaccia to eat walking.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Basilica S.Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

    Sights

    Venice's greatest Gothic church: Titian's Assumption altarpiece and Bellini's triptych are unmissable.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Osteria Anice Stellato

    Eat · $$$

    A canal-side Cannaregio osteria on Fondamenta de la Sensa; start with the cicchetti, then the fish of the day.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Ca' Rezzonico

    Sights

    Ca' Rezzonico: the grandest 18th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, full of Tiepolo frescoes and Venetian rococo excess.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Glam Enrico Bartolini

    Eat

    Donato Ascani's tasting menu in Palazzo Venart's garden rooms on the Grand Canal; lagoon fish, cooked precisely.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    la sete

    Drinks · $$

    La Sete is a buzzy Cannaregio wine bar, perfect for a final glass of natural wine steps from the hotel, well before midnight.

    Map

Day 3: Burano: lace, risotto, the whole island

Take the early ferry, browse the island's finest lace atelier, step into the Lace Museum, and sit down to the risotto di gò at Al Gatto Nero before the crowds find the dock.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Dalla Lidia Merletti D'Arte

    Shopping

    Start the morning browsing Burano's finest lace atelier, the island's most storied craft shop, perfect with a coffee in hand from a nearby bar.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Lace Museum

    Sights

    Burano's lacemaking school turned museum, with pieces back to the 1500s; closed Mondays.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Trattoria Al Gatto Nero

    Eat · $$$

    Acclaimed lunch, Al Gatto Nero is Burano's most celebrated table and the heart of the day; don't skip the risotto di gò.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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