SWEARBY
Italy · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Venice

Rialto markets, Cannaregio wine bars and a vaporetto to Burano.

This is Venice for people who want to eat well without booking six months out, drink natural wine in rooms that feel like someone's front parlour, and get to Burano before the day-trippers arrive. Three days is enough to feel the rhythm of the city if you stop trying to see all of it. Moderate budget, high return.

3 days, 16 stopsAbout €270 a person a dayStay in Dorsoduro

Day 1: San Polo and the Rialto

Start with a serious espresso at Caffè del Doge, walk the Rialto and its market, spend the afternoon at Museo Fortuny, then end at Antiche Carampane for the trip's first great dinner and a glass of Amarone next door.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Caffè del Doge

    Coffee

    A roaster on Calle dei Cinque by the Rialto; drink an espresso at the counter like the stallholders do.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Ponte di Rialto

    Sights

    Walk the Rialto Bridge and linger at the market stalls below, the beating commercial heart of Venice, right on the doorstep.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto

    Eat · $$

    Old-school San Polo osteria beloved by locals, classic cicchetti and pasta at honest prices.

    Map
  4. 2:15 PM

    Museo Fortuny

    Sights

    Mariano Fortuny's Gothic palazzo-studio, still hung with his printed silks and lamps; closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Trattoria Antiche Carampane

    Eat · $$$

    A hard-to-find San Polo trattoria for lagoon seafood; order the fried moeche or the spider crab in season.

    Map
  6. 9:15 PM

    Vineria all'Amarone - Wine Tasting

    Drinks · $$

    A San Polo wine bar pouring Amarone and Valpolicella by the glass; ask for a tasting flight.

    Map

Day 2: Cannaregio, slowly

Pick up breakfast at Panificio Crosera, browse Banco Lotto N.10, eat vegetables at La Zucca, catch Titian's Assumption at the Frari at golden hour, then head to Anice Stellato for seafood and La Sete for a proper nightcap.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Panificio Crosera

    Coffee

    A neighbourhood bakery by San Canciano; get a warm pastry or a slice of focaccia to eat walking.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Banco Lotto N.10

    Shopping

    Clothes and bags sewn by women in the Giudecca prison workshop; every purchase pays a wage there.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Osteria La Zucca

    Eat · $$

    Osteria La Zucca is a local legend, creative Venetian vegetables and a short, honest menu, reliably great value.

    Map
  4. 4:30 PM

    Basilica S.Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

    Sights

    Frari holds Titian's Assumption, one of the great paintings you can walk right up to, no crowds at this hour.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Osteria Anice Stellato

    Eat · $$$

    Locals' osteria on a quiet Cannaregio canal: Venetian seafood and cicchetti at the bar; book ahead.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    la sete

    Drinks · $$

    La Sete is a cosy Cannaregio wine bar, good natural wines and a proper nightcap vibe, right in the neighbourhood.

    Map

Day 3: Burano by vaporetto

Cross the lagoon early, work through lace at the museum and Dalla Lidia, eat lunch at Da Primo, then stay on the island for dinner at Al Gatto Nero and order the risotto di go.

  1. 10:15 AM

    Lace Museum

    Sights

    Burano's lacemaking school turned museum, with pieces back to the 1500s; closed Mondays.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Trattoria Da Primo

    Eat · $$

    A Burano trattoria for a plate of lagoon fish and a fritto misto without the Gatto Nero prices.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    Dalla Lidia Merletti D'Arte

    Shopping

    Lace shop with a back room of antique pieces; watch a lacemaker at work near the door.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Trattoria Al Gatto Nero

    Eat · $$$

    Burano's canal-side trattoria; order the risotto di gò, made with goby from the lagoon, and the fried fish.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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