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Italy · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Milan

Art, aperitivo and honest food, the way Milanese actually spend their days.

This is Milan without the fashion-week posturing: neighbourhood cafés, ancient basilicas you can actually breathe in, and dinners that cost what they should. It suits anyone who wants to move between Brera, the Navigli and Porta Venezia at a human pace, eating and drinking well without needing to justify the bill.

3 days, 18 stopsAbout €240 a person a dayStay in Brera

Day 1: Brera, Sempione and a proper dinner

The day opens in one of Milan's oldest artist cafés, drifts through Romanesque lanes and a vast park, and ends with a trattoria dinner and a glass in a Brera wine cellar.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Jamaica

    Coffee · $$

    Historic Brera café beloved by artists and locals, the right spot to start the day.

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  2. 10:15 AM

    Basilica di San Simpliciano

    Sights

    Early-Romanesque gem tucked in the Brera lanes, beautiful courtyard, no crowds at this hour.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    La Libera

    Eat · $$

    Trusted local favourite in Porta Garibaldi, solid Italian at $$ prices, exactly the casual mid-range lunch this day calls for.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Parco Sempione

    Outdoors

    Milan's great green lung behind Castello, a proper afternoon wander without spending a euro.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Osteria Brunello

    Eat · $$$

    The one splurge: a classic Italian trattoria in Porta Garibaldi with a loyal local following, the memorable dinner the trip deserves.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    N'Ombra de Vin

    Drinks · $$

    A Brera wine bar in an old cellar; a glass of something Italian at a fair price to end the day.

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Day 2: Navigli columns, brutalism and pizza

Roman columns, a brutalist tower that photographs can't do justice, and an evening of serious pizza and cantina wine in the neighbourhood that earned them, the most architecturally varied day of the three.

  1. 9:30 AM

    NOWHERE FUTURE COFFEE ROASTERS

    Coffee · $$

    Specialty roaster beloved by locals, solid espresso or filter to start the day right.

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  2. 10:15 AM

    Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

    Sights

    One of Milan's oldest basilicas with striking Roman columns still standing out front, free and genuinely impressive.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Panini De Santis - Milano

    Eat · $$

    Much-loved sandwich spot in Cerchia dei Navigli, casual, cheap, exactly what locals grab for lunch.

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  4. 2:00 PM

    Torre Velasca

    Sights

    Torre Velasca is Milan's brutalist icon, walk around it and up close it's far more dramatic than any photo suggests.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    CONFINE - PIZZA E CANTINA

    Eat · $$$

    CONFINE is the neighbourhood's most talked-about pizza, great wine list and proper cantina atmosphere for a memorable dinner.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    Colibrì

    Drinks

    A neighbourhood cocktail bar near the Statale university, an easy last drink after Carrobbio.

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Day 3: Porta Venezia, gardens and a slow finish

A gentle morning in Milan's grandest public gardens gives way to a neighbourhood trattoria lunch, a landmark gate and a low-key final evening that lets the city settle in properly.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Pavé

    Eat · $$

    Bakery café near Porta Venezia known for its brioche; a cappuccino and a pastry before the walk.

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  2. 10:15 AM

    Giardini pubblici Indro Montanelli

    Outdoors

    Milan's beloved public gardens, a relaxed morning stroll before the day heats up.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Da Oscar

    Eat · $$

    A no-frills family trattoria with big portions of Milanese classics at fair prices.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Porta Venezia

    Sights

    The grand Porta Venezia gateway, iconic Milanese landmark worth a proper look.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Bites

    Eat

    Small international plates near Corso Buenos Aires; share a few and pair them with a glass of wine.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    Osteria Alla Concorrenza

    Drinks · $$

    A small osteria and wine bar a few minutes from dinner for one last glass.

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Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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