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Portugal · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Porto, splurging

Livraria Lello and the Bolhão market, fire cooking at Elemento, sunset at Praia da Luz.

This is Porto for people who eat and drink with intention: mornings with great espresso, afternoons in bookshops and market halls, evenings at the tables everyone in the city is talking about. It moves between the historic centre, the waterfront and the windswept mouth of the Douro, so you get the full shape of the city without rushing. If you are happy spending real money to eat and drink very well, this is your three days.

3 days, 18 stopsAbout €400 a person a dayStay in Baixa / Aliados

Day 1: Bolhão, Lello and a big dinner

The day opens with espresso at Época, winds through one of the world's great bookshops and Porto's restored market, and closes with a fire-cooked dinner and a glass of natural wine.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Época Porto

    Coffee · $$

    Bright brunch café on Rua do Rosário; seasonal plates, good granola and a properly pulled espresso.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Livraria Lello & Irmão

    Sights

    Iconic neo-Gothic bookshop, one of the most beautiful in the world, worth the queue for.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Almeja

    Eat · $$$

    Chef João Cura's contemporary Portuguese cooking a few minutes from Bolhão; book ahead and take the tasting menu.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Mercado do Bolhão

    Sights

    Porto's revamped Art Deco market, a genuine landmark to wander after lunch.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Elemento

    Eat · $$$

    Everything cooked over fire in an open kitchen; sit at the counter and take the chef's menu.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Genuíno - Vinho Natural e Boa Comida

    Drinks · $$

    Natural wine bar with good small plates; ask for a Portuguese skin-contact white by the glass.

    Map

Day 2: Cathedral hill to the Ribeira waterfront

A strong café start at Piolho, a climb to the Romanesque cathedral, a polished lunch on Rua das Flores, and cocktails on the water after dinner at Cantinho do Avillez.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Café Piolho

    Coffee

    Students' café since 1909 opposite the old university; order a galão and toast at the counter.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Sé do Porto

    Sights

    Porto's iconic Romanesque-Baroque cathedral with sweeping views over the Douro, the most storied landmark.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Cozinha das Flores

    Eat · $$$$

    Acclaimed modern cuisine on Flores, one of the most talked-about lunch tables in Ribeira.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Hard Club

    Sights

    The 1880s Ferreira Borges iron market hall, now a concert venue; step inside and up to the café terrace.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Cantinho do Avillez - Porto

    Eat · $$$

    José Avillez's relaxed Porto room on Mouzinho da Silveira; share the petiscos and finish with the hazelnut dessert.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Café do Cais - Restaurante & Cocktails

    Drinks · $$

    Glass-walled bar on the Ribeira quay; order a white port and tonic and watch the lights come on in Gaia.

    Map

Day 3: Foz do Douro: coast, fortress and Japanese

The day slows down at the mouth of the Douro: a neighbourhood café in Foz, a riverside park, an acclaimed lunch at Cafeína, a coastal fortress, and Terra's Japanese menu to close.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Chalé Suiço

    Coffee

    Charming neighbourhood café right in the Foz area, the perfect unhurried morning coffee to start the day.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Jardim do Passeio Alegre

    Outdoors

    Palm-lined garden where the Douro meets the sea; walk out along the pier to the Felgueiras lighthouse.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Cafeína

    Eat · $$$

    Acclaimed with an inventive international menu, a polished, destination-worthy lunch.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Forte de São Francisco Xavier

    Sights

    Castelo do Queijo, a 17th-century fort on the rocks where Foz meets Matosinhos; climb the walls for the ocean view.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Terra Restaurant

    Eat · $$$

    Sushi and Japanese plates in a Foz house on Rua do Padrão; sit at the sushi counter if you can.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Restaurante Praia da Luz

    Drinks · $$

    Praia da Luz overlooks the ocean, a relaxed post-dinner drink with a great sea view to close the night.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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