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Portugal · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Funchal

Old markets, cliff edges, espetada, and a poncha that earns its reputation.

This is Funchal for people who want to eat and drink like they live there, not like they're on a package tour. You'll move between the city's historic core, a jaw-dropping coastal detour, and a quieter bay to the east, with enough downtime to let the island's pace get into you. Bring an appetite and comfortable shoes.

3 days, 14 stopsAbout €100 a person a dayStay in Sé / Centro and Zona Velha edge

Day 1: Old Town, Wine and Poncha

The 1940 market hall sets the tone: exotic fruit, black scabbardfish, and flowers everywhere, before a long afternoon of tavern food and Madeira wine that ends on a local's stool with a fresh-made poncha.

  1. 10:30 AM

    Mercado dos Lavradores

    Sights · $$

    1940 Art Deco market hall, hit the flower sellers, black scabbardfish in the fish hall, and tropical fruit stalls.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Taberna Madeira

    Eat · $$

    Big sharing plates of tuna belly, octopus and espada com banana, traditional tavern, great value.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    Blandy's Wine Lodge

    Sights · $$

    Old Franciscan lodge where the Blandy family has aged Madeira since 1811; taste a 10-year Malmsey.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Restaurante Informal

    Eat · $$

    Small dining room near the Sé cooking Madeiran fish and meat simply, with island wines by the glass.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Rei da Poncha

    Drinks · $

    Poncha benchmark, €3.50 to €6, fresh-made passion-fruit poncha on locals' stools, the real deal.

    Map

Day 2: Cabo Girão and the Fishing Village

Coffee at Churchill's favourite harbour, then a walk onto a glass floor above a 589-metre sea cliff, followed by the only place worth eating espetada: on a laurel stick, in the parish that invented it.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Câmara de Lobos

    Sights · $

    Start with a coffee at the harbour of Churchill's favourite fishing village, grab a bica and soak in the working-boat atmosphere before the day kicks off.

    Map
  2. 11:00 AM

    Cabo Girão skywalk

    Outdoors · $

    Stand on the 589 m glass-floor skywalk over one of Europe's highest sea cliffs, the most dramatic viewpoint on the island, not to be missed.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Restaurante Santo António

    Eat · $$

    Espetada pilgrimage: beef on laurel sticks in the parish that owns the dish, served with milho frito and bolo do caco.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Lume Pizzeria

    Eat · $$

    Wood-fired pizza out in the Lido area, an easy dinner after a long day on the cliffs.

    Map

Day 3: Machico bay and the whale museum

A morning climb to Pico do Facho, fish at Mercado Velho, Machico's sandy beach and the Museu da Baleia in Caniçal, then open-fire cooking at Kampo.

  1. 10:00 AM

    Pico do Facho

    Outdoors

    Walk or drive up to the old beacon point: all of Machico bay below, and the airport runway on its stilts.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Restaurante Mercado Velho

    Eat · $$

    Lunch in Machico's restored old market by the beach; order espada with banana and passion fruit.

    Map
  3. 2:00 PM

    Machico beach

    Outdoors · $

    Machico's sheltered sandy bay inside the breakwater; the sea is still around 22°C in late October.

    Map
  4. 3:30 PM

    Museu da Baleia

    Sights

    Caniçal's whaling history in a modern museum, with life-size sperm whale models; closed Mondays.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Kampo by Chef Julio Pereira

    Eat · $$$

    Chef Júlio Pereira's open-fire kitchen in the centre: island fish and meat cooked over embers.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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