Things to do in Nice, splurging
La Petite Maison, bouillabaisse in Villefranche and the last seating at JAN.
This is Nice for people who come for the tables: La Petite Maison at lunch, the Negresco at night, bouillabaisse on the Villefranche quay and Jan Hendrik's single nightly seating by the port. Between the meals sit the Rothschild villa, Chagall, Matisse and the best views from Castle Hill. Book the dinners before you book the flights.
Day 1: Old town to the Negresco
The Cours Saleya flower stalls, lunch at La Petite Maison, the Musée Masséna and the Promenade des Anglais lead to dinner at Le Chantecler and a nightcap at Le 1913.
- 9:30 AM
Cours Saleya
Walk the flower stalls early, then buy candied fruit at Maison Auer, confiseur here since 1820.
Map - 12:30 PM
La Petite Maison
Nicole Rubi's dining room: courgette-flower beignets, then the truffle macaroni. Book well ahead.
Map - 3:00 PM
Musée Masséna
Belle Époque villa on the seafront holding the story of Nice, from Napoleon to the 1930s; closed Tuesday.
Map - 5:00 PM
Promenade des Anglais
Step out of the villa's garden onto the seafront and walk the Promenade at sunset to the Negresco.
Map - 7:30 PM
Le Chantecler
Virginie Basselot's dining room at the Negresco, dinner Wednesday to Sunday; book and dress up a little.
Map - 9:45 PM
Le 1913, Hôtel Negresco
The Negresco's walnut-panelled bar, with live jazz, pop or soul in the evenings.
Map
Day 2: Villefranche and the Rothschild villa
Cocteau's Chapelle Saint-Pierre and the Rue Obscure fill the morning, La Mère Germaine serves bouillabaisse at lunch, Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild takes the afternoon, and Flaveur closes the day.
- 10:30 AM
Chapelle Saint-Pierre (Cocteau chapel)
Cocteau painted this fishermen's chapel in 1957; 4 euros cash, closed Monday and Tuesday.
Map - 11:15 AM
- 12:30 PM
La Mère Germaine
Bouillabaisse on the quay since 1938, served in two courses; 82 euros a plate. Closed Monday, Tuesday.
Map - 2:30 PM
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Béatrice de Rothschild's pink villa and nine gardens between two bays; 18 euros, open afternoons all year.
Map - 7:30 PM
Flaveur
The Tourteaux brothers cook tasting menus with spice: squid tagliatelle, monkfish. Closed Sunday, Monday.
Map
Day 3: Cimiez, Castle Hill, dinner at JAN
The Musée Matisse at opening and the Musée Marc Chagall before its lunch break, lunch on the terrace of La Réserve de Nice, the Colline du Château at dusk, dinner at JAN and cocktails at POVERA.
- 10:00 AM
Musée Matisse
Be there at opening for Matisse's late cut-outs with the rooms almost to yourself; closed Tuesday.
Map - 11:30 AM
Musée National Marc Chagall
Chagall's 17 Biblical Message canvases, hung as he chose; last tickets 12:30, closed Tuesday.
Map - 1:15 PM
La Réserve de Nice
A terrace hanging over the Baie des Anges below Mont Boron; the lunch menu is the one to book.
Map - 3:30 PM
Colline du Château
Walk round the port and Rauba Capeu, then up the hill as the light drops; the park shuts at 18:00 in winter.
Map - 7:30 PM
Restaurant JAN
Jan Hendrik's South African-Riviera menu, one seating a night, Tuesday to Saturday; save room for melktert.
Map - 10:00 PM
POVERA
Zero-waste seasonal cocktails two streets from JAN; order the Lavoisier and a slice of focaccia.
Map
Where to stay
Hôtel du Couvent, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Nice, France
A restored convent in the old town with Roman-style baths, a cloister bar and butler service.
La Pérouse
Rooms over the Baie des Anges and a pool cut into the rock of Castle Hill, at the end of the Promenade.
Le Negresco
The Belle Époque palace on the Promenade, with Le Chantecler and Le 1913 downstairs.
Make Nice your trip
Swearby drafts the days from places people swear by. Swap any stop, then invite the crew by text, even friends without the app. Vote on dates, track costs as you go, and everyone gets one number at the end.
Get Swearby on the App StoreBefore you go
Book ahead
- Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild: a few days ahead
- Carnaval de Nice: months ahead
- Mala Cave: a few days ahead
- Gorges du Verdon: a few days ahead
- Canyoning Nice: a few days ahead
- Monte-Carlo Golf Club: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Promenade front restaurants and Cours Saleya terrace rows charge for the view. Eat one street back in the Old Town or Port.
- A Riviera in a day mega tour giving 30 minutes per town. The train does it better and cheaper.
- La Petite Maison is famous and scene driven, better for people watching than value. Avoid Castle Hill at midday in August.
The full Nice travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around