Cheap things to do in Nice
Wood-fired socca, free hilltop views and a cliff path that costs nothing.
This is Nice for the price of a few slices of socca: the old town's markets and counters, the free climb up Castle Hill, Matisse's hill at Cimiez and the cliff path to Villefranche. Most of what makes the city special is outdoors and free, so the money goes on lunch, and a train ticket back from Villefranche costs less than a coffee on the Promenade.
Day 1: Market, socca and Castle Hill
The Cours Saleya market and Chez Thérésa's socca start the day, the Colline du Château gives the view, Gésu does lunch, and happy hour at Les Distilleries Idéales runs into dinner at La P'tite Cocotte.
- 9:00 AM
Cours Saleya Market
Flowers and produce Tuesday to Sunday until about 13:30; on Mondays it turns into an antiques market.
Map - 9:45 AM
Chez Thérésa
Socca straight from the wood oven, about 3.50 euros a slice; eat it hot with plenty of black pepper.
Map - 10:45 AM
Colline du Château
Free from 8:30; climb from the old town for the view over Port Lympia and the whole Baie des Anges.
Map - 12:30 PM
Restaurant du Gésu
No-frills niçoise cooking on Place du Jésus; ravioli à la daube for about 14 euros. Closed Sunday.
Map - 6:00 PM
Les Distilleries Idéales
Happy hour runs 18:00 to 20:00, with 18 beers on tap and charcuterie boards to share.
Map - 7:30 PM
La P'tite Cocotte
Two courses for about 25 euros, served in cast-iron cocottes; finish with the chocolate fondant.
Map
Day 2: Matisse's hill and the port
The Libération market, the Musée Matisse and the Cimiez monastery garden fill the morning, Le Bistrot des Docks does a cheap lunch, the Russian cathedral takes the afternoon, and Chez Pipo bakes socca for dinner by the port.
- 9:00 AM
Marché de la Libération
The market locals actually shop at, Tuesday to Sunday until 12:30; cheaper than Saleya for fruit and olives.
Map - 10:30 AM
Musée Matisse
Matisse's Nu bleu IV and late cut-outs in a red villa; from 10 euros, free under 18, closed Tuesday.
Map - 12:00 PM
Jardin du Monastère de Cimiez
Free rose garden with a sea view; Matisse's grave is in the cemetery next door, left after the gate.
Map - 1:15 PM
Le Bistrot des Docks
Plat du jour for about 16 euros by the Libération market; lunch Tuesday to Saturday.
Map - 3:15 PM
Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas)
Tiled onion domes on a quiet residential street; cover your shoulders and skip Sunday morning.
Map - 7:00 PM
Chez Pipo
Locals queue from 17:30 for socca, pissaladière and tourte de blettes. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Map
Day 3: Cliff path to Villefranche
Coffee at Café du Cycliste on the port leads onto the Sentier du Littoral to Villefranche, with lunch at Lou Bantry and the Citadelle Saint-Elme, then the train home for sunset on the Promenade des Anglais and dinner at Lou Pilha Leva.
- 8:45 AM
- 9:45 AM
Sentier du Littoral
Free cliff path round Cap de Nice to Villefranche, about two hours with steps; skip it in a heavy swell.
Map - 12:30 PM
- 2:00 PM
Citadelle Saint-Elme
Free 16th-century citadel over the harbour, then the vaulted Rue Obscure below; train home is 7 minutes.
Map - 4:30 PM
Promenade des Anglais
Back on the train, walk the seafront west from the old town and take a blue chair for sunset over the bay.
Map - 7:30 PM
Lou Pilha Leva
Order at the counter, eat at shared tables: socca, pissaladière and sardine beignets for under 15 euros.
Map
Where to stay
Villa Saint Exupéry Beach
Hostel with en-suite dorms and a bar, a few minutes from Place Masséna and the beach.
Mama Shelter Nice
Cheap, cheerful rooms by the port, a short walk from Chez Pipo, Lympia and the start of the cliff path.
Make Nice your trip
Swearby drafts the days from places people swear by. Swap any stop, then invite the crew by text, even friends without the app. Vote on dates, track costs as you go, and everyone gets one number at the end.
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Book ahead
- Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild: a few days ahead
- Carnaval de Nice: months ahead
- Mala Cave: a few days ahead
- Gorges du Verdon: a few days ahead
- Canyoning Nice: a few days ahead
- Monte-Carlo Golf Club: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Promenade front restaurants and Cours Saleya terrace rows charge for the view. Eat one street back in the Old Town or Port.
- A Riviera in a day mega tour giving 30 minutes per town. The train does it better and cheaper.
- La Petite Maison is famous and scene driven, better for people watching than value. Avoid Castle Hill at midday in August.
The full Nice travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around