Things to do in Lucca, splurging
Walled city, serious food, the kind of trip you'll want to repeat.
This is Lucca for people who eat well, sleep well, and still want to see the city rather than just the inside of restaurants. Three days inside the walls gives you medieval churches, a baroque palace garden, sharp cocktails, and an acclaimed dinner without any rushing. It suits couples or solo travellers who book ahead and don't mind spending properly.
Day 1: Old Centre, Coffee to Crudo
Start at a 19th-century pastry institution before the crowds arrive at San Michele, then work through Roman ruins, a warm Tuscan lunch, and an elegant seafood dinner with a speakeasy nightcap.
- 9:30 AM
Pasticceria Taddeucci
19th-century pastry institution, try the buccellato, the sweet bread Lucca invented, with an espresso.
Map - 10:15 AM
San Michele in Foro
Pisan-Romanesque façade right across from the pastry shop, stacked twisted columns and the winged St Michael are unmissable at this hour before crowds arrive.
Map - 12:30 PM
Osteria da Pasquale
Warm owner-led osteria, generous Tuscan cooking, caponata (Sicilian roots), veal ragù pasta, excellent local wine.
Map - 2:15 PM
Santi Giovanni e Reparata
Descend through layers of Lucca, Roman houses, early Christian baptistery and archaeological excavations beneath the church floor.
Map - 7:30 PM
Ristorante All'Olivo
Seafood from Viareggio daily, crudo, whole grilled fish, Montecarlo Bianco pairings, elegant rooms and covered garden.
Map - 9:30 PM
Franklin '33
Speakeasy-style bar steps from Piazza Napoleone, proper cocktails, the residents' pick to close out the night.
Map
Day 2: Palazzo Pfanner and the Amphitheatre
Focaccia from Lucca's best historic oven, the finest private garden inside the walls, a vault-set lunch, boutique browsing on Via Fillungo, and an acclaimed dinner closing in the city's living-room oval piazza.
- 9:30 AM
Forno Amedeo Giusti
Historic oven, focaccia plain and topped, seasonal, locals queue for warm slices, the city's best focaccia.
Map - 10:15 AM
Palazzo Pfanner
This landmark: roam the baroque palace rooms and the stunning walled garden, the finest private garden inside the walls.
Map - 12:30 PM
Osteria Baralla
Historic osteria built into the Roman amphitheatre vault, get the farro soup and a traditional Lucchese plate.
Map - 2:30 PM
Via Fillungo
Lucca's medieval main street, independent shops and cafés from end to end, the town's afternoon promenade.
Map - 7:30 PM
Buca di Sant'Antonio
Lucca's old-guard dining room under hanging copper pots; order the tordelli lucchesi and the roast kid.
Map - 9:30 PM
Piazza dell'Anfiteatro
Nightcap drinks in the oval piazza built into the 2nd-century amphitheatre, Lucca's living room, magical after dark.
Map
Day 3: Down to Pisa, Along the Arno
Serious specialty coffee, the Gothic river church in morning light, a major palazzo gallery, lunch in a 13th-century tower at Osteria dei Cavalieri, then back to Lucca for dinner at Giglio.
- 9:30 AM
Filter Coffee Lab
Pisa's serious specialty coffee roastery, the right start before a day of exploring the Lungarno.
Map - 10:15 AM
Santa Maria della Spina
The Gothic jewel right on the Arno, the heart of the whole day, best lit in morning light.
Map - 11:45 AM
Palazzo Blu
Restored Lungarno palazzo steps away, major temporary exhibitions plus permanent Pisan art collection at eye level.
Map - 1:15 PM
Osteria dei Cavalieri
13th-century tower restaurant by Piazza dei Cavalieri: separate land and sea menus, Tuscan wines, locals and academics.
Map - 8:00 PM
Giglio
Back in Lucca, three young chefs cook a sharp Tuscan tasting menu in a frescoed room on Piazza del Giglio.
Map
Where to stay
Grand Universe Lucca
Grand Universe Lucca sits at the heart of the walled city, within easy reach of every stop on all three days, and the rooms match the spending level of this trip.
Palazzo Dipinto
Palazzo Dipinto is a quieter, more intimate option a few steps further north, right near Palazzo Pfanner and Franklin '33.
Make Lucca your trip
Swearby drafts the days from places people swear by. Swap any stop, then invite the crew by text, even friends without the app. Vote on dates, track costs as you go, and everyone gets one number at the end.
Get Swearby on the App StoreBefore you go
Book ahead
- Torre Guinigi: a few days ahead
- Torre delle Ore: a few days ahead
- Puccini e la sua Lucca: a few days ahead
- Lucca Bikes and Bites: a few days ahead
- Ciclovia Puccini Lucca to Pisa: a few days ahead
- Rafting on the Lima River: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Eating on the Anfiteatro oval frontage by default, have the drink there and eat a street away.
- Doing Lucca as a rushed 3 hour day trip and missing the evening Puccini recital and the passeggiata.
- Paying luxury prices for a large group coach that gives Lucca only 60 to 90 minutes.
- Driving into the ZTL, sat nav does not outrank the varco attivo signs.
The full Lucca travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around