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Italy · 3-day itinerary

Cheap things to do in Lucca

Walls, pasta, Roman ruins and a proper cocktail, all without breaking the bank.

This is Lucca at its most local: mornings fuelled by focaccia and gelato, afternoons on the city walls for free, evenings in trattorias that have been feeding the same neighbourhood for decades. It suits anyone who would rather spend money on a second bowl of tordelli than a hotel breakfast buffet.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout €85 a person a dayStay in Inside the walls - historic centre

Day 1: The old city on foot

Start underground in a Roman baptistery, surface for fresh pasta, then walk the full wall circuit before a plate of tordelli and a late cocktail.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Forno Amedeo Giusti

    Coffee

    Queue with locals for warm focaccia straight from the historic oven, the cheapest, most Lucchese breakfast you'll find.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Santi Giovanni e Reparata

    Sights · $

    Descend through Roman houses and an early Christian baptistery, archaeological layers right under the church floor, small entry fee.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    In Pasta, Cibo e Convivio

    Eat · $

    Fresh pasta made in-house at street-food-plus prices, seasonal filled pastas and generous salads, perfect thrifty lunch.

    Map
  4. 2:15 PM

    Lucca walls cycle

    Sights · $

    Free elevated 4.2 km walk along the tree-lined city walls, the best afternoon stroll in Lucca with views over the rooftops.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Trattoria da Giulio

    Eat · $

    80 years feeding Lucchesi, order the tordelli lucchesi and sausage with beans, earthy and cheap.

    Map
  6. 9:15 PM

    Franklin '33

    Drinks · $$

    A small speakeasy-style bar near Piazza San Michele; ask for a classic and let them make it properly.

    Map

Day 2: Palazzo Pfanner to the amphitheatre

Buccellato for breakfast, the gold mosaic of San Frediano, pici with rabbit ragu, a tower climb, and nightcap drinks in a piazza that was once a Roman arena.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Pasticceria Taddeucci

    Coffee

    Baking buccellato since 1881; take a slice of the anise and raisin ring standing at the counter with a coffee.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Basilica di San Frediano

    Sights

    Free to enter: a gold mosaic facade, a carved Romanesque font and the body of Saint Zita in a glass case.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Osteria dal Manzo

    Eat · $$

    Rustic Tuscan kitchen a short walk away, locals keep coming back for the pici with rabbit ragù done properly.

    Map
  4. 3:00 PM

    Torre Guinigi

    Outdoors

    Climb 230 steps to the holm oaks growing on top for the best view of the amphitheatre's oval; no booking needed.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Osteria Baralla

    Eat · $$

    Historic osteria set inside the amphitheatre vault, farro soup and traditional plates in one of Lucca's most atmospheric rooms.

    Map
  6. 9:15 PM

    Piazza dell'Anfiteatro

    Sights

    Nightcap in the oval piazza built into the Roman amphitheatre footprint, Lucca's living room, buzzing with locals after dark.

    Map

Day 3: Day trip to Pisa

Coffee from a serious roastery, a Gothic marble church on the Arno, Keith Haring for free, and cecina from a wood oven to finish.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Filter Coffee Lab

    Coffee · $

    Pisa's serious specialty roastery cafe, proper morning coffee to kick off the day.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Santa Maria della Spina

    Sights

    Gothic marble gem right on the Arno, free to admire outside, one of Pisa's most striking landmarks.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Trattoria Sant'Omobono

    Eat · $

    Pisan home cooking in a former church, order the bordatino or pan-fried rabbit, wallet-friendly.

    Map
  4. 2:15 PM

    Tuttomondo (Keith Haring mural)

    Sights

    Keith Haring's massive 1989 mural on Sant'Antonio church, free, unmissable, one of his last works.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Pizzeria da Nando

    Eat

    700-year street-food tradition: chickpea cecina baked in a wood oven, cut to order, as cheap and local as it gets.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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