SWEARBY
Portugal · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Funchal, splurging

Blandy's wine lodge, the Cabo Girão skywalk, poncha and dinner at Il Gallo d'Oro.

This is Funchal for people who eat well, sleep well, and don't apologise for either. The days move between the Lido strip, the fishing villages to the west, and the dramatic eastern coast, with a serious dinner most evenings. If you want to understand what Madeiran cooking actually is at its best, and pair that with some of the Atlantic's most vertiginous scenery, this is your three days.

3 days, 14 stopsAbout €350 a person a dayStay in Sé / Centro and Zona Velha edge

Day 1: Wine, cliffs, and poncha in the Lido

The day opens in a 200-year-old wine lodge, sharpens over great-value island cooking, and ends at an acclaimed table above the sea before a nightcap of €3.50 passion-fruit poncha with the locals.

  1. 10:30 AM

    Blandy's Wine Lodge

    Sights · $$

    Old Franciscan lodge where the Blandy family has aged Madeira since 1811; taste a 10-year Malmsey.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Restaurante Casal da Penha

    Eat · $$$

    Family restaurant above the Lido road for limpets, espada and grilled octopus, cooked the island way.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    Santa Catarina Park

    Outdoors

    Clifftop park with sweeping harbour views, the easy afternoon walk west toward the Lido promenade before dinner.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Avista Restaurant

    Eat · $$$

    Clifftop terrace restaurant at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay; Josper-grilled fish as the sun drops into the sea.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Rei da Poncha

    Drinks · $

    Rei da Poncha, the benchmark poncha bar, €3.50 passion-fruit cups and locals' stools, the perfect nightcap after a big dinner.

    Map

Day 2: Cabo Girão and the fishing villages

Espresso in Churchill's favourite harbour, a glass-floor moment 589 metres above the Atlantic, a proper espetada lunch in the parish that invented the dish, then dinner at Akua back in Funchal.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Câmara de Lobos

    Sights · $

    Start with espresso in Churchill's favourite fishing village, harbour views, colourful boats, and the famous espada-and-beer atmosphere kicking off.

    Map
  2. 11:00 AM

    Cabo Girão skywalk

    Outdoors · $

    Stand on the 589 m glass-floor skywalk over one of Europe's highest sea cliffs, the single most dramatic viewpoint on the island.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Restaurante Santo António

    Eat · $$

    Espetada pilgrimage: beef on laurel sticks in the parish that owns the dish, served with milho frito and bolo do caco.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Akua

    Eat · $$$

    Fish-led plates in Funchal's old town, the trip's big dinner.

    Map

Day 3: Machico bay, whales and fish

Pico do Facho above Machico bay, the Museu da Baleia in Caniçal, fish at Mercado Velho, an afternoon on Machico beach and dinner at Il Gallo d'Oro.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Pico do Facho

    Outdoors

    Walk or drive up to the old beacon point: all of Machico bay below, and the airport runway on its stilts.

    Map
  2. 10:45 AM

    Museu da Baleia

    Sights

    Caniçal's whaling history in a modern museum, with life-size sperm whale models; closed Mondays.

    Map
  3. 12:45 PM

    Restaurante Mercado Velho

    Eat · $$

    Lunch in Machico's restored old market by the beach; order espada with banana and passion fruit.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Machico beach

    Outdoors · $

    Machico's sheltered sandy bay inside the breakwater; the sea is still around 22°C in late October.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Il Gallo d'Oro

    Eat · $$$$

    Tasting menu at The Cliff Bay turning Madeiran fish, fruit and herbs into precise Mediterranean plates.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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