Things to do in Edinburgh
Art, seafood, folk pubs and the views locals actually go to see.
This is Edinburgh for people who want to eat and drink well without spending a fortune on theatre. The plan moves between New Town, the Southside and Stockbridge, all walkable, all rewarding. It suits anyone who'd rather spend money on one genuinely good dinner than on a hotel with a doorman.
Day 1: New Town, Calton Hill, and a proper dinner
Start on the hill for the views, spend the afternoon with art and books, and end with the best meal of the trip at Eleanore followed by a nightcap at The Ox.
- 9:30 AM
Ante
A small New Town café for a proper flat white and breakfast before the climb up Calton Hill.
Map - 10:30 AM
- 12:30 PM
The Broughton
A neighbourhood restaurant on Broughton Street for a relaxed lunch; ask about the daily specials.
Map - 2:30 PM
Fruitmarket
Free contemporary art shows in an old fruit market behind Waverley, with a very good art bookshop.
Map - 7:30 PM
Eleanore
From the Little Chartroom couple: seasonal small plates and natural wine on Leith Walk. Book ahead.
Map - 9:30 PM
The Ox
Proper Scottish bar in New Town for a nightcap cocktail, locals' pick, wraps up the evening without a late finish.
Map
Day 2: Old Town museums, the Meadows, and folk music
A free morning in one of Britain's best museums, a casual Scottish lunch, then an evening of Indian small plates and live traditional music at Sandy Bell's.
- 9:30 AM
- 10:15 AM
National Museum of Scotland
Free world-class museum right on the doorstep, dinosaurs, Scottish history and the Lewis Chessmen all under one roof.
Map - 12:30 PM
Makars Mash Bar
Classic Scottish comfort food, neeps, tatties and mash done right, a local favourite for a casual lunch.
Map - 2:00 PM
The Meadows
Edinburgh's beloved green lung, walk off lunch and soak up the city atmosphere locals come here for daily.
Map - 7:30 PM
Mother India's Cafe
Indian small plates on Infirmary Street; order several and share, the lamb chops and dhal especially.
Map - 9:15 PM
Sandy Bell's
Legendary folk pub a short walk away, live traditional music most nights, real ales, no pretension.
Map
Day 3: Stockbridge, the Water of Leith, and a great-value dinner
A slow morning with good pastry, a riverside walk to a neoclassical curiosity, mussels at lunch, and Skua to close out the trip in style.
- 9:30 AM
Lannan Bakery
Queue early for the laminated pastries; the croissants and seasonal buns sell out by late morning.
Map - 10:30 AM
St Bernard's Well
Walk the Water of Leith to this 1789 temple to Hygieia, built over an old mineral spring.
Map - 12:30 PM
Mussel Inn Seafood Restaurant
Scottish rope-grown mussels by the kilo pot on Rose Street; pick a sauce and add chips.
Map - 2:15 PM
Golden Hare Books
A small, carefully stocked bookshop on St Stephen Street with a strong fiction and Scottish shelf.
Map - 7:30 PM
- 9:30 PM
Where to stay
Motel One Edinburgh-Royal
Stylish, fairly priced rooms by Waverley, a short walk to the Royal Mile, New Town and the Fruitmarket.
The Scotsman
A former newspaper HQ on the Old Town edge, good value at $$, and an easy walk to both Stockbridge and the Southside.
Make Edinburgh your trip
Swearby drafts the days from places people swear by. Swap any stop, then invite the crew by text, even friends without the app. Vote on dates, track costs as you go, and everyone gets one number at the end.
Get Swearby on the App StoreBefore you go
Book ahead
- Edinburgh Castle: weeks ahead
- The Scotch Whisky Experience: a few days ahead
- Johnnie Walker Princes Street: a few days ahead
- The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo: months ahead
- Muirfield: months ahead
- Rosslyn Chapel: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Eating and shopping on the Royal Mile itself, which charges a location premium for worse product.
- The 12 plus hour Loch Ness coach day, mostly motorway for a photo stop.
- Harry Potter merch shops and generic ghost tours, use Mary King's Close for underground Edinburgh.
- Royal Mile tartan shops selling mass produced imports at heritage prices. Look for a mill label or buy in a specialist kiltmaker.
The full Edinburgh travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around