SWEARBY
Spain · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Barcelona, splurging

Casa Vicens, Casa Batlló and the Picasso, then Bar Mut and Passadís del Pep.

This is three days built around tables that are genuinely hard to get and bars that actually know what they're doing. It works best if you're happy walking between neighbourhoods, spending real money on lunch as well as dinner, and treating a market visit as a design excursion rather than a grocery run.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout €400 a person a dayStay in Eixample

Day 1: L'Antiga Esquerra: architecture, then Acurio

The day opens on Gaudí's first house and a market hall, sharpens at Gresca for lunch, and ends with Gastón Acurio's Peruvian seafood and a late cocktail at FUGAZ.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Casa Vicens

    Sights

    Gaudí's first house, finished in 1885: Moorish tilework, a painted smoking room and a quiet roof terrace.

    Map
  2. 11:00 AM

    Alsur Café

    Coffee

    Brunch cafe on the Eixample grid; eggs Benedict or avocado toast with a flat white.

    Map
  3. 11:45 AM

    Mercat de la Llibertat

    Shopping

    Mercat de la Llibertat: a beautiful iron-and-glass market to browse stalls and grab a coffee from one of the market bars.

    Map
  4. 1:30 PM

    Gresca

    Eat · $$$

    Rafa Peña's bistro on Carrer de Provença; a seasonal lunch of small plates with a glass of natural wine.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Yakumanka, amb Gastón Acurio

    Eat · $$$

    Gastón Acurio's cevichería: leche de tigre, ceviches and causas with a pisco sour.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    FUGAZ

    Drinks · $$$

    FUGAZ: top-rated bar in the neighbourhood, perfect for a late cocktail or digestif after dinner.

    Map

Day 2: Eixample: Gaudí, sharing plates, Bar Mut

Casa Batlló in the morning, Compartir for a long Mediterranean lunch, a flower-and-produce browse at the Concepció market, then Bar Mut for dinner and Boadas to close.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Cafè de l'Òpera

    Coffee

    Grand La Rambla cafe since 1929; a cortado or a thick hot chocolate under the old mirrors.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Casa Batlló

    Sights · $$$

    Gaudí's dragon-roofed masterpiece on the Block of Discord, the interior underwater world is unmissable.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Compartir Barcelona

    Eat · $$$$

    The Disfrutar chefs' sharing-plates room on Valencia; order several starters and a rice for the table.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Mercat de la Concepció

    Shopping

    Mercat de la Concepció for a browse through stalls, flowers, produce, and neighbourhood character in the heart of Eixample.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Bar Mut

    Eat · $$$

    Upscale tapas bar on Pau Claris; ask what came in that day and pair it with a serious glass of wine.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Boadas

    Drinks

    Barcelona's oldest cocktail bar, pouring since 1933 at the top of La Rambla; order a classic daiquiri.

    Map

Day 3: Gothic Quarter and El Born: Picasso to Passadís

Five medieval palaces housing one of the city's greatest collections, cult Japanese at Shunka, the wildly-tiled Santa Caterina for a wander, and a legendary no-menu seafood dinner followed by natural wine at Bar Brutal.

  1. 10:30 AM

    Picasso Museum Barcelona

    Sights · $$

    Picasso's early years across five joined medieval palaces, including his 58 Las Meninas variations.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Shunka

    Eat · $$$

    Japanese counter a block from the cathedral; sit facing the chefs for nigiri and the hot dishes.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    Mercat de Santa Caterina

    Shopping

    Mercat de Santa Caterina, the wildly-tiled market hall just north of El Born, great for design browsing and local colour.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Passadís del Pep

    Eat · $$$

    No menu: plates of the day's seafood keep coming until you say stop, down a passage off Pla de Palau.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Can Cisa/Bar Brutal

    Drinks · $$

    Natural-wine bar with a deep bottle list and good small plates, a short walk from dinner.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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