Things to do in Madrid
Casa Salvador, Salmon Guru, and the best tortillas in Malasaña
A Madrid that feels local without trying to prove it: good markets in the morning, a proper sit-down lunch, and one cocktail bar that earns its reputation. For anyone who wants to eat and drink well without overthinking the bill.
Day 1: Chueca and Justicia, the long way
A morning of market stalls and courtyard architecture sets up an afternoon that ends with Peruvian food at TAMPU and some of Madrid's best cocktails at Salmon Guru.
- 9:30 AM
Gran Café Gijón
Literary café on Paseo de Recoletos since 1888; a cortado at the marble tables is the gentle start.
Map - 10:30 AM
Mercado de San Antón
Mercado de San Antón is right on Chueca's doorstep, browse local produce, cheeses and deli stalls before the lunch crowd arrives.
Map - 12:30 PM
Restaurante Casa Salvador
Classic Madrid taberna loved by locals, order the cod and the house wine, it's the real deal.
Map - 2:30 PM
Instituto Cervantes
The old Banco Central of 1918, caryatids on the facade; drop in for its free exhibitions on Spanish culture.
Map - 7:30 PM
TAMPU
Peruvian cooking in Chueca: start with a ceviche and a pisco sour, then share the lomo saltado.
Map - 9:30 PM
Salmon Guru
Salmon Guru is Madrid's best proper cocktail bar, inventive drinks, buzzy crowd, and it's a short cab ride from TAMPU.
Map
Day 2: Malasaña at its own pace
Flat whites at Café Federal, tortillas at Gabino, and a proper fish dinner at El Señor Martín make this the most local-feeling day of the three.
- 9:30 AM
Café Federal
Reliable brunch-café a short walk away, grab a proper flat white and something to eat before heading out.
Map - 10:30 AM
Plaza del Dos de Mayo
The beating heart of Malasaña, a lively square beloved by locals for its neighbourhood feel and street life.
Map - 12:30 PM
Restaurante Las Tortillas de Gabino
Tortilla made a dozen ways, from classic runny to truffled; share two and a salad.
Map - 2:30 PM
Mercado de Barceló
Compact neighbourhood market, browse fresh produce and local stalls at an easy pace.
Map - 7:30 PM
El Señor Martín, Restaurante de Pescados y Mariscos
Fish and shellfish from the market, grilled whole over charcoal; ask what came in today.
Map - 9:30 PM
Macera
Cocktails built on spirits they infuse themselves; ask for whatever's newest on the shelf.
Map
Day 3: La Latina, Palacio, Sol
Churros since 1894, a wander through Plaza Mayor, lunch from the stalls at Mercado de San Miguel, an afternoon in La Latina's covered market, then a great-value dinner at Trèsde and vermút at Casa Labra.
- 9:30 AM
Chocolatería San Ginés
Madrid's legendary chocolatería, churros con chocolate since 1894, a true local morning ritual.
Map - 10:15 AM
Plaza Mayor
Stroll the grand plaza, soak in the arcades and street life before the crowds arrive.
Map - 11:15 AM
Mercado de la Cebada
La Latina's working market in a 1950s concrete hall; browse the fish and ham stalls before lunch.
Map - 12:30 PM
Mercado de San Miguel
The covered iron market: a glass of wine and a few tapas from the stalls, lunch within the money.
Map - 7:30 PM
Trèsde
Contemporary Spanish cooking in La Latina at a fair price; let them pick a few plates to share.
Map - 9:30 PM
Where to stay
Pestana CR7 Gran Vía
Solid mid-range on Gran Vía, well-placed for all three days without paying for a name.
7 Islas Hotel, Madrid, Spain
7 Islas sits right in the Chueca pocket, putting Day 1 literally on your doorstep.
Make Madrid your trip
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Book ahead
- Museo del Prado: weeks ahead
- Museo Reina Sofía: weeks ahead
- Royal Palace of Madrid: weeks ahead
- Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum: weeks ahead
- Corral de la Morería: weeks ahead
- Santiago Bernabéu: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Mercado de San Miguel is a beautiful glass market but not a working market and prices show it, have one vermouth then crawl elsewhere.
- Plaza Mayor terrace restaurants where you pay for the view not the food.
- Paella for one ready in five minutes on picture menus, and flamenco dinner packages sold by street touts.
The full Madrid travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around