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Brazil · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Salvador

Colonial gold, beach mornings, and cooking that tastes like nowhere else on earth.

This is Salvador for people who want to eat well, move slowly, and actually understand what they're looking at. The three days cover the gilded Baroque core, the best beach in the city, and the neighborhood where locals spend their weekends. One serious dinner per day, real Bahian food at every meal, and a cocktail bar that closes before midnight.

3 days, 14 stopsAbout R$500 a person a dayStay in Barra

Day 1: Pelourinho: Gold, Tiles, and Dinner

Start with the most ornate church in Brazil, eat your way through a legendary Bahian buffet, and close the night at a proper local bar steps from the square.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Pelourinho

    Sights

    Start the morning with a stroll through the UNESCO colonial heart, pastel mansions, Baroque facades, and Afro-Brazilian culture all in one cobblestone square.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Igreja e Convento de São Francisco

    Sights · $

    Wall-to-wall gilded woodcarving and Portuguese azulejos from the early 1700s, one of Brazil's most breathtaking Baroque interiors.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    SENAC Restaurante Escola

    Eat · $

    Sprawling Bahian buffet by a cooking school, caruru, vatapá, moqueca, acarajé, all under one roof at great value.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Mercado Modelo

    Shopping

    The 19th-century customs house turned craft market; skip the trinkets and look for capoeira in the square outside.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Ori

    Eat · $$$

    Fabrício Lemos's modern take on Bahian ingredients; order à la carte and share.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Bar de Neuzão

    Drinks

    Plain neighbourhood bar near Pelourinho; a cold beer at a plastic table and the street going by.

    Map

Day 2: Barra: Fort, Beach, and French

A 17th-century lighthouse kicks off the morning before you settle into Salvador's calmest, clearest cove, then head uphill for a bay-view dinner that has been running since 1963.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Farol da Barra

    Sights

    The 17th-century fort and lighthouse at the mouth of the bay; walk the ramparts, then the small nautical museum.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Porto da Barra

    Outdoors · $

    Grab a coffee from a beach vendor and ease into the morning at this sheltered, locals-loved cove, calm, clear water right at your doorstep.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Sorriso da Dadá

    Eat · $$

    Chef Dadá, legend of Bahian home cooking, feijoada and home dishes in a cosy Pelourinho room.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Chez Bernard

    Eat · $$$

    French cooking since 1963 on the Gamboa clifftop; book a window table for the lights over the bay.

    Map

Day 3: Rio Vermelho: Heritage Food and a Slow Square

A quiet museum, lunch at one of the city's most serious heritage kitchens, and an afternoon under the trees at Largo de Santana before Chef Tereza Paim's celebrated Bahian table.

  1. 10:30 AM

    A Casa do Rio Vermelho

    Sights

    Jorge Amado and Zélia Gattai's house, kept as they lived in it; go before the midday heat.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Dona Mariquita, Cozinha Patrimonial

    Eat · $$

    Lunch-only heritage kitchen serving pre-industrial Bahian recipes like efó and xinxim de galinha, don't miss it, it won't be open later.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    Largo de Santana

    Outdoors

    Largo de Santana is a breezy, leafy square perfect for a slow afternoon wander with locals.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Restaurante Casa de Tereza

    Eat · $$$

    Chef Tereza Paim's celebrated Bahian table, casquinha de siri, bobó de camarão, moqueca in an art-filled space. The one memorable dinner of the trip.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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