SWEARBY
Italy · 3-day itinerary

Cheap things to do in Palermo

Street food, free baroque, and a city that rewards slow walkers with empty pockets.

This is a plan for someone who eats at plastic tables, pays nothing at the door when possible, and considers a spleen sandwich a cultural experience. You will cover the old city on foot, take one bus out to Monreale, and come home full every night having spent very little. No rooftop bars, no tasting menus, no concierge.

3 days, 14 stopsAbout €70 a person a dayStay in Politeama-Libertà

Day 1: Vucciria and the Kalsa

Start with cannoli and baroque geometry at Quattro Canti, then lose the afternoon inside Vucciria market before finishing with a pani ca meusa at Franco u Vastiddaru as the Kalsa cools down.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Pasticceria Costa

    Coffee · $

    Via Maqueda pastry shop by Quattro Canti; a cannolo filled to order for a couple of euros.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Quattro Canti

    Sights

    Baroque octagonal crossroads dividing four historic quarters, heart of Palermo's street grid.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Vecchia Trattoria da Totò

    Eat · $

    No-frills trattoria inside Vucciria, order the pasta c'anciova e muddica and eat like a local for a few euros.

    Map
  4. 2:15 PM

    Vucciria Market

    Sights · $

    What's left of Palermo's oldest market: a few stalls by day, street grills and cheap beer after dark.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Franco u' Vastiddaru

    Eat · $

    Old-school pani ca' meusa and panelle, the benchmark cheap bite in the Kalsa, eat at the outdoor tables.

    Map

Day 2: Normans, monks and street spleen

A morning of Byzantine gold inside the Cappella Palatina, an afternoon among Palermo's mummified dead, and a cheap pizza to close out the day at Osteria da Carlo.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Caffetteria del Corso

    Coffee · $

    Start the day Sicilian-style with an outstanding granita, sweet, cold, and cheap.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Palazzo dei Normanni

    Sights

    Norman Palace housing the Cappella Palatina, book online and arrive at first entry to beat the crowds.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Nino u' Ballerino

    Eat · $

    Pani ca' meusa institution, get the spleen sandwich with lemon, a Palermo street-food rite of passage.

    Map
  4. 3:00 PM

    Capuchin Catacombs

    Sights · $

    8,000 mummified Palermitans arranged by profession, eerie, unique, and only a few euros.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Osteria da Carlo

    Eat · $

    Cheap neighbourhood pizzeria by the Palazzo d'Orléans gardens; a margherita and a beer for very little.

    Map

Day 3: Monreale, Ballarò and Mondello

Monreale Cathedral in the morning, street food at Ballarò, an afternoon on Mondello beach and a seafood dinner at Trattoria da Calogero.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Monreale Cathedral

    Sights · $$

    Free to enter the gold-mosaic nave; the cloister and roof terraces cost a few euros and are worth it.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Ballarò Market

    Eat · $

    Arancine, panelle and sfincione from the market stalls for a few euros; liveliest before mid-afternoon.

    Map
  3. 3:00 PM

    Mondello Beach

    Outdoors

    The 806 city bus from Politeama runs to the beach; swim if it's warm or walk the long curve of sand.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Trattoria da Calogero

    Eat · $$

    Fried calamari and a plate of pasta at a lively seafood trattoria off the Mondello square; closed Wednesdays.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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