SWEARBY
India · 3-day itinerary

Cheap things to do in Mumbai

Street food, heritage walks and local bars without spending much at all.

This is Mumbai for the traveller who wants to eat standing up, wander colonial arcades, and catch a cricket match in the park rather than pay for a pool. Three days cover the Fort belt, the South Indian quarter of Matunga and the lanes of Bandra West: very different neighbourhoods, same low spend throughout. If your idea of a good night is seekh kebab on a pavement followed by one cold beer in an old Colaba café, this plan was made for you.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout ₹5,500 a person a dayStay in Colaba

Day 1: Fort, Kala Ghoda and Colaba

Start in Mumbai's colonial core: Kala Ghoda coffee, an Irani café lunch and Flora Fountain, the city's great museum in the afternoon, then pavement kebabs and a beer under Mario Miranda murals.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Kala Ghoda Cafe

    Coffee · $$

    Rope Walk Lane café in Kala Ghoda; coffee and the rasta omelette sandwich before the Fort walk.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Kyani & Co

    Eat

    Irani café serving since 1904; bun maska, keema pav and sweet chai at the marble-topped tables.

    Map
  3. 2:00 PM

    Hutatma Chowk

    Outdoors

    Flora Fountain (1864) beside the flame memorial to the 106 killed in the 1956 Samyukta Maharashtra protests.

    Map
  4. 4:30 PM

    Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya

    Sights

    Indo-Saracenic museum opened in 1922; give the miniature paintings and Gandhara Buddhas most of your hour.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Bademiya

    Eat · $

    Iconic pavement stall for seekh kebab and baida roti, Mumbai street-food royalty at rock-bottom prices.

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  6. 9:00 PM

    Café Mondegar

    Drinks

    Colaba Causeway café from 1932 with Mario Miranda murals and a jukebox; a cold beer to end the day.

    Map

Day 2: Matunga and Shivaji Park

A slower, very local day built around South Indian breakfast, a flower and spice market, a Maharashtrian lunch and an afternoon watching cricket on Shivaji Park.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Ram Ashraya

    Coffee · $

    Classic South Indian breakfast here, idli, medu vada, filter coffee, expect a queue but it moves fast.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Matunga Market

    Shopping

    Matunga Market's Tamil quarter: fresh flowers, spices and street snacks, great browse for a thrifty traveller.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Aaswad

    Eat

    Maharashtrian vegetarian canteen by Shivaji Park; get the misal pav and a sabudana vada.

    Map
  4. 2:00 PM

    Shivaji Park

    Outdoors

    Free laps of the rain-tree path where Tendulkar trained, then Dadar Chowpatty beach a block west.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Ashok Vada Pav

    Eat · $

    Vada pav fried to order near Kirti College; add a chura pav, the crispy batter bits stuffed in a bun.

    Map

Day 3: Bandra West: lanes, murals, chaat

Spend the day in Bandra's old gaothans and street-art lanes, break for pani puri and a market browse, then finish with dinner close to the neighbourhood you've just learned.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Mokai Cafe

    Coffee · $$

    Pali Naka café for a cold brew or matcha and a katsu sando to fuel the walk.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Bandra West villages + street art

    Sights

    Wander the East Indian gaothans, Indo-Portuguese cottages and Bollywood Art Project murals on Chapel Road, all free.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Elco Pani Puri Centre

    Eat · $

    Long-running Hill Road chaat house; pani puri made with filtered water, plus ragda pattice.

    Map
  4. 2:00 PM

    Pali Bazaar

    Shopping

    Browse the lively local market at Pali Bazaar, cheap, buzzy and very Bandra.

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  5. 4:30 PM

    Carter Road Promenade

    Outdoors

    Free sea-facing walk north to Khar Danda; go toward sunset with the mangroves on the shore side.

    Map
  6. 7:30 PM

    One Street Over

    Eat

    An easy sit-down dinner near Pali Naka, a short walk from where the market and promenade end.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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