SWEARBY
Italy · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Milan, splurging

Brera and the Duomo, Joia's vegetarian lunch, a Campari at Camparino, dinner at Masuelli.

This is Milan for people who read the menu before they book the flight. Three days move through Brera, the centro storico and Porta Venezia, with a fine-dining lunch, a roster of high-rated Italian tables and enough design retail to do real damage. It suits anyone who wants the city to feel earned rather than touristic, and who considers a good Negroni a non-negotiable end to the evening.

3 days, 18 stopsAbout €600 a person a dayStay in Brera

Day 1: Brera, art and a long evening

The day opens with coffee at Jamaica, moves through the Pinacoteca and a Brera lunch, then ends with a glass in a Brera wine cellar.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Jamaica

    Coffee · $$

    Legendary Brera café, a Milan institution for a proper morning coffee among artists and locals.

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  2. 10:15 AM

    Palazzo di Brera

    Sights

    Stroll the courtyard and Pinacoteca di Brera, one of Italy's great art collections, steps from the café.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Vesta Fiori Chiari

    Eat · $$$$

    Seasonal Italian cooking on a Brera side street; ask for a table outside on Via Fiori Chiari.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Orto Botanico di Brera

    Outdoors

    The hidden botanical garden tucked inside the Brera academy, a quiet, beautiful post-lunch wander.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Veramente

    Eat · $$$

    Modern Italian in the quiet San Marco streets behind Brera, an easy dinner a few minutes' walk from the gallery.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    N'Ombra de Vin

    Drinks · $$

    A Brera wine bar in an old cellar, open late; pick a bottle from the shop shelves and drink it there.

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Day 2: Duomo, old churches, late pizza

Marchesi sets the tone at nine-thirty, the Gothic rooftop puts the city in perspective, and the night closes at Campari's own historic bar inside the Galleria.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Marchesi 1824

    Coffee · $$$

    The historic pastry house's room above the Galleria; a cappuccino and a brioche looking down on the arcade.

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  2. 10:30 AM

    Duomo di Milano

    Sights

    Milan's unmissable Gothic cathedral, climb the rooftop terraces for the full view over the city.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Rovello 18

    Eat · $$$

    Classic Milanese cooking and a serious wine list; the cotoletta is the order.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

    Sights

    One of the oldest churches in Milan with stunning 4th-century mosaics, a genuine cultural detour.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    CONFINE - PIZZA E CANTINA

    Eat · $$$

    Long-fermented pizza and a deep cantina wine list in Carrobbio; order a bottle to go with it.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    Camparino in Galleria

    Drinks · $$$

    Campari's own historic bar inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the city's most iconic after-dinner cocktail.

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Day 3: Porta Venezia, fine-dining lunch, the Quadrilatero

The San Carlo al Lazzaretto chapel, Pietro Leemann's vegetarian lunch at Joia, the Quadrilatero boutiques, dinner at Masuelli and a late drink at Moebius.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Pavé

    Eat · $$

    Bakery café near Porta Venezia known for its brioche; a cappuccino and a pastry before the walk.

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  2. 10:15 AM

    Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto

    Sights

    An octagonal 1580s church that once stood open in the middle of the plague lazaretto; quiet and small.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Joia

    Eat · $$$$

    Haute vegetarian cooking from Leemann's longtime chefs; the weekday three-plate lunch is the way in.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Quadrilatero d'Oro

    Shopping

    Milan's legendary golden rectangle of flagship design boutiques, exactly what the splurge traveller is here for.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Trattoria Masuelli San Marco

    Eat · $$$

    A Milanese trattoria run by the same family for a century; order the cotoletta or the risotto alla milanese.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    Moebius Milano

    Drinks · $$$

    Cocktails and a lively bar room in a converted warehouse near Centrale; sit at the counter.

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Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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