Things to do in Jerusalem, splurging
Ancient stones, serious restaurants, and the best tables in the holy city.
This is Jerusalem for someone who wants the full weight of the place without roughing it: mornings at landmark sites and world-class museums, afternoons in markets and old quarters, evenings at the restaurants people actually fly in for. It suits a confident solo traveller or a couple who can handle intensity and wants to eat very well at the end of it.
Day 1: Nachlaot, Mahane Yehuda, Old City
The day moves from a 1967 coffee institution and the market at its peak through a raucous, brilliant lunch at Machneyuda, then into the Old City with a private guide and dinner at the Culinary Workshop, ending at the Western Wall after dark.
- 9:30 AM
Kadosh Café
Jerusalem institution since 1967, pastries, strong coffee, and prime people-watching to ease into the morning.
Map - 10:30 AM
Mahane Yehuda Market
Jerusalem's great shuk at its liveliest mid-morning, spices, producers, and the full sensory spectacle before lunch crowds arrive.
Map - 12:30 PM
Machneyuda
The most-sworn-by table in the market, raucous, brilliant Israeli cooking from the team that put Nachlaot on the map.
Map - 2:30 PM
Private Old City tour
A licensed private guide routes the Old City by your interests, the premium way to move through three faiths' holiest ground.
Map - 7:30 PM
The Culinary Workshop
Open-kitchen chef's restaurant near the First Station, cooking Israeli produce with European technique.
Map - 9:30 PM
Western Wall
Free plaza open 24/7, ancient Herodian stones, powerful at dawn and Friday Shabbat evening.
Map
Day 2: Ein Kerem, Yad Vashem, Israel Museum
A green village start, two serious hours at one of the world's most important memorials, a splurge Asian lunch at Naya, then the Dead Sea Scrolls and a full evening in Nachlaot.
- 9:30 AM
Ein Kerem
Start in the charming green village of Ein Kerem, grab coffee at one of its artsy cafés before the day kicks off.
Map - 10:30 AM
Yad Vashem World Holocaust Remembrance Center
Spend a solid two hours on the 45-acre campus, individual stories, monuments and gardens make this one of the world's most important Holocaust memorials.
Map - 12:30 PM
Naya Jerusalem
Naya Jerusalem is the go-to destination Asian table in this part of the city, ideal for a splurge lunch after the memorial.
Map - 2:30 PM
Israel Museum
World-class archaeology, the Second Temple model and the Shrine of the Book housing the Dead Sea Scrolls, give it a good two hours.
Map - 7:30 PM
Jacko Street - Kosher Chef Restaurant ג'קו סטריט - מסעדת שף כשרה
Kosher chef's restaurant by the shuk: grilled meats, market vegetables and a lively room.
Map - 9:30 PM
Beer Bazaar (Mahane Yehuda)
Shuk craft-beer bar: Israeli brews on tap among the shuttered stalls after dark; closed on Shabbat.
Map
Day 3: Bethlehem: Nativity, olive press, Banksy
The Church of the Nativity, the Badd olive press museum, lunch at Afteem and tea at The Walled Off Hotel, then wagyu at Black Iron back in Jerusalem.
- 9:30 AM
Bethlehem Church of the Nativity
Bring your passport for the checkpoint; Israeli citizens can't legally enter Area A. Free entry; grotto first.
Map - 11:00 AM
Al-Bad Museum for Olive Oil Production متحف بد جقمان
The Giacaman family's 18th-century olive press, restored as a small museum of Bethlehem oil; closed Sundays.
Map - 12:30 PM
Afteem
Bethlehem's hummus house since 1948, just below Manger Square: warm msabbaha, falafel and fresh juice.
Map - 2:30 PM
The Walled Off Hotel
Banksy's hotel facing the wall: its museum, then tea in the piano bar; the checkpoint home is 500 m away.
Map - 7:30 PM
Black Iron
Kosher all-wagyu steakhouse on Agripas, steaks sold by weight with sides apart; closed Fridays.
Map
Where to stay
Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem
The Waldorf puts you within walking distance of Mahane Yehuda and Mamilla, with the kind of service and design finish this itinerary calls for.
Mamilla Hotel
Mamilla Hotel sits right on the Old City fringe with sharp design, a rooftop bar, and the best position for Day 1 and Day 3 departures.
Make Jerusalem your trip
Swearby drafts the days from places people swear by. Swap any stop, then invite the crew by text, even friends without the app. Vote on dates, track costs as you go, and everyone gets one number at the end.
Get Swearby on the App StoreBefore you go
Book ahead
- Old City: a few days ahead
- Western Wall: weeks ahead
- Yad Vashem: a few days ahead
- City of David: a few days ahead
- Tower of David Museum: a few days ahead
- Private Old City Tour, Jerusalem: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Unlicensed guides at Jaffa Gate who attach themselves and invoice you at the end.
- Currency exchange booths around Jaffa Gate with rates far from the market rate.
- Restaurants by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre with no prices on the menu.
- The red string blessing on the steps to the Western Wall, where a string is tied and money demanded.
The full Jerusalem travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around