Things to do in Istanbul, splurging
Fine-dining tables, Ottoman landmarks, and cocktails with a Bosphorus backdrop.
This is Istanbul for people who eat well, drink carefully, and shop with intention. Day one climbs through Beyoğlu, day two gives the Old City its due with the mosques, the Grand Bazaar and lunch at Pandeli, and day three crosses to the food-serious Asian side. You won't cover everything, but everything you cover will be worth it.
Day 1: Karaköy and Beyoğlu, top to bottom
Start with a proper espresso at Savoy, take in the AKM and Galata Tower at a human pace, then let 1924 İstanbul and Summit Bar carry the evening from dinner to last call.
- 9:30 AM
Savoy
Old Cihangir pastry shop; a su böreği, a cherry pastry and a Turkish coffee before walking up to Taksim.
Map - 10:15 AM
Atatürk Kültür Merkezi
Atatürk Cultural Centre, landmark worth seeing up close, right on Taksim square.
Map - 12:30 PM
- 2:30 PM
Galata Kulesi
Galata Tower, iconic landmark a short walk downhill; great city panorama in the afternoon light.
Map - 7:30 PM
1924 İstanbul
Russian dining room in Beyoğlu styled on the émigré years; order the beef stroganoff and a chilled vodka.
Map - 9:30 PM
Summit Bar & Terrace
Summit Bar & Terrace, best cocktails with a skyline backdrop to close the night.
Map
Day 2: Mosques, bazaars and Pandeli
The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar's old core, lunch above the Spice Bazaar at Pandeli, Süleymaniye, then dinner at Deraliye.
- 9:00 AM
Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
Free; come at opening for the İznik tiles under the cascading domes. Shut at prayers and Friday noon.
Map - 9:45 AM
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia)
Foreign visitors take the ticketed upper gallery, where the Deesis and imperial mosaics are.
Map - 11:30 AM
Kapalıçarşı (Grand Bazaar)
Head for the Cevahir Bedesten at the centre for antique silver and old textiles. Closed Sundays.
Map - 1:15 PM
Pandeli
Blue-tiled rooms above the Spice Bazaar since 1901; aubergine börek and sea bass in paper. Closed Sundays.
Map - 3:00 PM
Süleymaniye Camii
Sinan's 1557 masterpiece; the courtyard and back terrace look over the Golden Horn. Closed at prayers.
Map - 7:30 PM
Deraliye
Ottoman palace dishes off Divanyolu; order mahmudiye, chicken with apricots and almonds.
Map
Day 3: Asian side: Kalamış to Kadıköy
Cross the water for a slow morning at Aya Triada, a serious lokanta lunch at Yanyalı Fehmi, a digestive lap of Yoğurtçu Parkı, and the trip's best dinner at Basta Neo Bistro.
- 10:30 AM
Aya Triada Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi
Stroll the peaceful garden of Aya Triada Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi, a striking Greek Orthodox church a short walk from Kalamış.
Map - 12:30 PM
Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası
Kadıköy lokanta open since 1919; point at the trays and get the hünkar beğendi and a stuffed vegetable plate.
Map - 2:30 PM
Yoğurtçu Parkı
Digest the lunch with a leisurely walk through Yoğurtçu Parkı, a beloved neighbourhood green space a few minutes from the lokanta.
Map - 7:30 PM
Basta Neo Bistro
Chef-run bistro on the Asian side; seasonal plates from a short daily menu and natural Turkish wines.
Map
Where to stay
Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul
A converted Ottoman palace on the water: the setting matches the ambition of the rest of these three days.
Park Hyatt Istanbul - Macka Palas
Park Hyatt Maçka Palas puts you in a landmark art-deco building a short walk from Beyoğlu and the Day 1 itinerary, with rooms that feel like a design hotel should.
Make Istanbul your trip
Swearby drafts the days from places people swear by. Swap any stop, then invite the crew by text, even friends without the app. Vote on dates, track costs as you go, and everyone gets one number at the end.
Get Swearby on the App StoreBefore you go
Book ahead
- Hagia Sophia: a few days ahead
- Basilica Cistern: a few days ahead
- Topkapı Palace: a few days ahead
- Şehir Hatları Long Bosphorus Tour: a few days ahead
- Galata Tower: a few days ahead
- Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı: a few days ahead
Skip these
- Skip Bosphorus dinner cruises with a dance show. Take the public long ferry and a fish lunch instead.
- Avoid restaurants on Sultanahmet Square, Divan Yolu touts and under Galata Bridge with picture menus.
- Never follow a stranger to a bar they pick. That is the drink scam, and the bill can be huge.
- Ignore the shoe shine brush drop, the mosque is closed pitch, and free guides who lead to carpet shops.
The full Istanbul travel guide: when to go, safety, getting around