SWEARBY
Germany · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Hamburg, splurging

The Kunsthalle and the old Elbe tunnel, a Gin Basil Smash at Le Lion, fish in Altona.

This is Hamburg for people who eat well, drink deliberately, and shop with purpose. The three days move from the grand Alster lakefront through the creative energy of the Schanzenviertel and down to the waterfront villages of Altona and the Fischereihafen, with an acclaimed or destination dinner waiting at the end of each one. You will need a reservation, a jacket, and a willingness to ring a doorbell.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout €380 a person a dayStay in Altstadt / Neustadt

Day 1: Alster, art, and the original Gin Basil Smash

A morning in one of Germany's great art museums, an afternoon of serious retail therapy at Alsterhaus, and a night that ends at the bar that put Hamburg on the cocktail map.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Franz & Friends

    Coffee · $

    Grab a Franzbrötchen fresh from the oven, locals argue this is Hamburg's best version of the iconic cinnamon swirl.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Hamburger Kunsthalle

    Sights · $$

    One of Germany's largest art museums, go straight for the Caspar David Friedrich rooms and the contemporary wing.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Café Paris

    Eat · $$$

    Brasserie in an 1880s butcher's shop under painted tiles by the Rathaus; order the steak tartare.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Alsterhaus

    Shopping

    Hamburg's premier department store on the Jungfernstieg, best edit of designer labels and local boutique brands under one roof.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    JIN GUI Hamburg

    Eat · $$$

    Pan-Asian in the Tortue hotel courtyard: sushi first, plus dim sum and the pumpkin tempura.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Le Lion • Bar de Paris

    Drinks · $$$

    Birthplace of the Gin Basil Smash, ring the bell, dress smart, order the original at the bar that put Hamburg cocktails on the map.

    Map

Day 2: Schanze: roastery mornings, landmark grills

The Schanzenviertel at its best: a proper roastery start, Bullerei's grill at lunch, a walk under the Elbe, a seafood dinner and a nightcap at the Altes Mädchen brewpub.

  1. 9:30 AM

    elbgold

    Coffee · $

    Schanze roastery in the old slaughterhouse yard on Lagerstraße; a filter coffee at the long bar before the park.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Sternschanzenpark

    Outdoors

    Hilly park around the old water tower (now a hotel), with dog-walkers and a view over the Schanze rooftops.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Bullerei

    Eat · $$$

    Tim Mälzer's grill hall in the old cattle-market building; go for the steak or the Wiener schnitzel.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Alter Elbtunnel

    Sights

    1911 pedestrian tunnel 24 m under the Elbe with original tiled reliefs and the best postcard view back to the Hamburg skyline.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    XO Seafoodbar

    Eat · $$$

    A fine dining pick, Seafood cooking.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Altes Mädchen and Ratsherrn

    Drinks · $$

    Schanze brewpub beer garden in the same Lagerstraße complex, perfect nightcap after dinner without wandering far.

    Map

Day 3: Altona and the Elbe waterfront

Harbour views from Park Fiction, a long Elbe-terrace lunch at the Fischereihafen, and an Asian-inflected acclaimed dinner before a final drink at Altona's most storied bar.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Park Fiction

    Sights

    Park Fiction's quirky community-designed rooftop park sits right on the Elbe, iconic Hamburg landmark with sweeping harbour views.

    Map
  2. 11:45 AM

    Altonaer Museum

    Sights

    Ship figureheads, fishing-boat models and old farmhouse rooms tell the story of the Elbe; closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  3. 1:15 PM

    Fischereihafen Restaurant

    Eat · $$$

    White-tablecloth fish house on Große Elbstraße since 1981: North Sea sole, Hamburg pannfisch and harbour views.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Restaurant Henssler

    Eat · $$$

    TV chef Steffen Henssler's sushi house on Große Elbstraße: go for the signature rolls and seared tuna.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Zum Schellfischposten

    Drinks

    Tiny old sailors' pub by the fish market where Ina Müller films her talk show; a Holsten and a shot of Köm.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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