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Croatia · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Dubrovnik, splurging

Old Town rooftops, island escapes and the best table you'll book all year.

This is Dubrovnik for people who want the walls walked before the crowds arrive, an acclaimed lunch followed by a destination dinner, and a cocktail perched above the Adriatic. Three days covers the Old Town properly, gets you out to the Elaphiti Islands, and winds down in Lapad with cliff-bar nightcaps. It suits anyone who eats well, shops deliberately and has no interest in queueing.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout €450 a person a dayStay in Ploče

Day 1: Old Town, walls to rooftop

A full day inside the walls: the ramparts, a serious lunch at Zuzori, siege photography at War Photo, dinner on the Above 5 rooftop and a last drink on the cliffs at Buža.

  1. 9:30 AM

    GreenGo Juices Smoothies & Coffee to go

    Coffee · $

    Fresh juice or a flat white to go from this tiny Old Town counter before you climb the walls.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    City Walls

    Sights · $$$

    Walk the full 2 km loop of the walls for red roofs, Minčeta Tower and open sea; bring water and a hat.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Zuzori

    Eat · $$$

    Acclaimed Mediterranean kitchen in the heart of Old Town, the go-to for a serious, unhurried lunch.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    War Photo Limited

    Sights · $

    Conflict photojournalism with a permanent room on the 1990s Yugoslav wars; open April to October only.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Above 5

    Eat · $$$

    Rooftop on a 16th-century Old Town house: shared plates and a long wine list over the walls and roofs.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Buža Bar

    Drinks · $$

    Terraces cut into sea wall cliffs south of Old Town with cliff-jumping locals, cold drinks and sunset views.

    Map

Day 2: Islands, market and sunset ridge

Breakfast by Pile Gate, the Gruž market while it is running, Pantarul's homemade pasta in Lapad, a late climb to Fort Imperial, then dinner near Pile and cocktails in the Old Town.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Cafe

    Coffee · $$

    Breakfast on the terrace by Pile Gate, looking straight across at Fort Lovrijenac and the sea.

    Map
  2. 11:00 AM

    Placa Gruž

    Shopping

    Browse the working Gruž morning market stalls, produce, spices and local honey right on the port square.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Pantarul

    Eat · $$

    Seasonal modern Croatian with homemade pasta and Konavle produce, the locals' own birthday-dinner pick, worth the short ride from Gruž.

    Map
  4. 4:30 PM

    Mount Srđ hike

    Outdoors

    Free, steep zigzag trail of 45 to 60 minutes up to Fort Imperial past the Stations of the Cross; take water.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Restaurant Sesame

    Eat · $$$

    Croatian Mediterranean cooking in a cosy stone room just outside Pile Gate; ask what fish came in today.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Zox Box

    Drinks

    Small Old Town cocktail bar for a last drink; sit outside on the lane if there is room.

    Map

Day 3: Lapad: harbour konoba to cave bar

The peninsula at its most local: a Babin Kuk morning walk, octopus and scallops at El Pulpo, a swim in Miramare Bay, a long dinner at Restaurant Vapor, then a nightcap in the cliff cave at Cave Bar More.

  1. 10:30 AM

    Babin kuk

    Outdoors

    Short hike to the Babin Kuk summit for panoramic views over the Elafiti Islands, a great morning leg-stretch.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Fish Bar El Pulpo

    Eat · $$$

    Order the octopus and scallops at this beloved Lapad harbour konoba, outside the tourist crush.

    Map
  3. 3:00 PM

    Bellevue Beach

    Outdoors

    Pebble cove under the cliffs of Miramare Bay; swim in clear water before dinner upstairs at the hotel.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Restaurant Vapor, Dubrovnik

    Eat · $$$$

    Hotel Bellevue's dining room over Miramare Bay; book a terrace table for sunset and go for the tasting menu.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Cave Bar More

    Drinks · $$

    Nightcap at Cave Bar More, a dramatic bar carved into the cliffs above the sea, perfect for a late cocktail.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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