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Thailand · 3-day itinerary

Cheap things to do in Chiang Mai

Ancient temples, great-value street food and vinyl bars on a shoestring

This is Chiang Mai for the traveller who wants to eat well, walk far and spend almost nothing. The Old City is your base for two days of temples, markets and night-time jazz, before the plan pulls you west toward the forest edge and the artist village at Baan Kang Wat. You will not need a taxi, a tour or a reservation for any of it.

3 days, 17 stopsAbout THB 1,200 a person a dayStay in Old City

Day 1: Old City temples, markets and roti

A morning among Chiang Mai's biggest ruins leads into a working riverside market and ends with vinyl, highballs and an easy walk home.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Fern Forest Cafe

    Coffee · $$

    Garden café shaded by ferns off Singharat Rd; an iced coffee here costs less than at home.

    Map
  2. 10:15 AM

    Wat Chedi Luang

    Sights

    Walk the vast ruined brick chedi, once home to the Emerald Buddha, free to wander and stunning.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Roti Pa Day

    Eat

    Great-value street-food roti stall, dirt cheap and right in the Old City.

    Map
  4. 2:00 PM

    Warorot Market (Kad Luang)

    Sights

    Working market by the Ping River, pick up sai ua sausage, dried longan and hill-tribe fabrics for next to nothing.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Garden to Table Chiangmai

    Eat · $

    Top-rated cheap Thai dinner in the Old City, solid local cooking without spending much.

    Map
  6. 9:00 PM

    Fung Record Bar

    Drinks · $$

    Vinyl listening bar with records and highballs near Prapokklao Road, low volume, great vibe, easy walk back.

    Map

Day 2: Khao soi, jazz and Chang Phuak Gate

The north quarter delivers the city's most celebrated bowl of noodles by day and its best live-jazz room by night, all within walking distance of each other.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Ristr8to

    Coffee · $

    Single-origin arabica from Chiang Mai mountains, by a latte-art world champion, the real deal for a cheap morning cup.

    Map
  2. 10:30 AM

    Thalat Thannin ตลาดธานินท์

    Shopping

    Thanin's covered market is where locals buy cooked northern curries, grilled pork and nam prik by the bag.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Khao Soi Maesai

    Eat · $

    Bowls of chicken or beef khao soi for a few dollars on Ratchaphuek Rd; it sells out by mid-afternoon.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Wat Chiang Man

    Sights

    Oldest temple in Chiang Mai (1296), quieter and more local than the tourist circuit, free to enter.

    Map
  5. 7:30 PM

    Chang Phuak Gate Night Market

    Eat · $

    Cowboy Hat Lady's legendary pork-leg rice stall, dry-suki and sticky rice, the most celebrated cheap eat at Chang Phuak Gate Night Market.

    Map
  6. 9:00 PM

    North Gate Jazz Co-Op

    Drinks · $

    Tiny jazz bar by Chang Phuak Gate where players jam into the night and the crowd spills onto the pavement.

    Map

Day 3: Forest tunnels and the artist village

The day starts in 700-year-old meditation tunnels, moves through great-value Thai cooking and finishes among pottery studios and natural-dye textiles at Baan Kang Wat.

  1. 10:30 AM

    Wat Umong

    Sights

    Walk the 700-year-old brick meditation tunnels, pond and forest chedi, free entry, completely unhurried.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Sanae

    Eat

    Great-value Thai, great food at street-food prices, right in the neighbourhood.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    Baan Kang Wat

    Shopping

    Village of artist studios under trees: pottery, natural-dye textiles, paper and cafés, best on weekends.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Euang Kam Sai

    Eat

    Great value, Northern Thai cooking.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Deaf Shop

    Drinks · $$

    Vinyl listening bar with records, highballs and low volume in the Old City.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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