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Argentina · 3-day itinerary

Luxury things to do in Buenos Aires

Lunch at Don Julio, Aramburu's tasting menu, El Ateneo's stage and the San Telmo market.

This is Buenos Aires at full volume: tasting menus, prime cuts carved tableside, luxury flagships, and rooftop bars above the river. Three neighbourhoods, each with its own register, stitched together by some of the best eating in South America. If you want to understand what this city can do when it's showing off, this is the route.

3 days, 18 stopsStay in Palermo Soho

Day 1: Palermo: coffee, fire and tasting menus

The day opens with Palermo's best specialty coffee, idles through a century-old botanical garden, then builds toward Don Julio's legendary parrilla at lunch and Crizia's contemporary fine-dining table at dinner.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Rita Specialty Coffee Soler

    Coffee · $$

    Palermo Hollywood specialty bar: a flat white or a filter of Latin American beans at the counter.

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  2. 10:15 AM

    Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays

    Sights

    Stroll the beautiful Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays, a grand historic landmark a short walk away.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Don Julio

    Eat · $$$$

    Palermo parrilla famous for grass-fed beef: order the bife de chorizo and the provoleta, and book weeks out.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Distrito Arcos

    Shopping

    Distrito Arcos is the neighbourhood's best open-air shopping strip, luxury and local brands a short stroll away.

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  5. 8:30 PM

    Crizia

    Eat

    Seafood-led tasting menu in a Palermo warehouse room, with produce from its own farm and fishermen.

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  6. 10:30 PM

    Backroom Bar

    Drinks · $$

    Low-lit Palermo cocktail bar for one well-made drink after dinner; porteños are only just going out.

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Day 2: Recoleta: El Ateneo to Aramburu

A slow cortado under La Biela's rubber tree, a long grill lunch at Fervor, and a night that peaks at Aramburu's tasting counter before cocktails at Los Galgos.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Café La Biela

    Coffee

    Recoleta institution under a giant rubber tree; a cortado and medialunas on the terrace by the cemetery.

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  2. 10:30 AM

    El Ateneo Grand Splendid

    Sights

    El Ateneo Grand Splendid, one of the world's most beautiful bookshops inside a converted theatre; unmissable landmark.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Fervor

    Eat · $$$$

    Recoleta grill on Posadas for prime Argentine beef and fish over coals; book the upstairs terrace for lunch.

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  4. 3:00 PM

    Patio Bullrich

    Shopping

    Patio Bullrich, Recoleta's grand luxury mall for an unhurried afternoon of high-end shopping.

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  5. 8:30 PM

    Aramburu

    Eat

    Gonzalo Aramburu's tasting counter, eighteen-odd small courses built on Argentine produce.

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  6. 11:00 PM

    Los Galgos

    Drinks

    1930 corner bar on Callao revived with classic cocktails; order a vermouth or a fernet con coca.

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Day 3: San Telmo and Puerto Madero: markets, river and skyline

The morning belongs to San Telmo's iron-and-glass market hall, the afternoon to prime cuts and a wetlands walk along the Río de la Plata, and the night to Osaka's Japanese precision and Trade Sky Bar's rooftop closer.

  1. 9:30 AM

    La Poesía

    Coffee · $$

    Historic neighbourhood café, the city-guide pick for a slow morning cortado in San Telmo.

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  2. 10:30 AM

    Mercado de San Telmo

    Shopping

    Iconic 1897 iron-and-glass market hall, antiques, local food stalls and street tango spill out onto the cobbles.

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  3. 12:30 PM

    Cabaña Las Lilas

    Eat · $$$$

    Acclaimed Puerto Madero institution, the city's most famous asado table; prime cuts over open fire with a river view.

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  4. 2:30 PM

    Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

    Outdoors

    Vast ecological reserve on the Río de la Plata, a restorative post-lunch walk through wetlands and wildlife just minutes from Puerto Madero.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Osaka

    Eat · $$$$

    Nikkei cooking, Peru by way of Japan: tiraditos, ceviche and robata skewers by the docks.

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  6. 9:30 PM

    Trade Sky Bar

    Drinks · $$$

    High-floor cocktail bar with the city and the river lights spread out below.

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Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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