SWEARBY
United States · 3-day itinerary

Things to do in Philadelphia, splurging

Reading Terminal, Magic Gardens and the Barnes, dinner at Vernick, Suraya for lunch.

This itinerary is built for someone who books restaurants weeks out and judges a city by its wine list and its coffee. The days move between Center City polish, South Philly's immigrant-kitchen energy, and Fishtown's sharper, newer edge. It is a trip for people who sleep well after a very good meal.

3 days, 15 stopsAbout $480 a person a dayStay in Rittenhouse Square

Day 1: Rittenhouse, murals, and Vernick

Start the trip at Reading Terminal, spend the afternoon in Fairmount Park with the skyline laid out in front of you, then settle into the Vernick empire's wine-focused room for the kind of dinner that sets the standard for the days that follow.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Old City Coffee

    Coffee · $

    Local roaster's stand inside Reading Terminal Market: a six-bean espresso to carry round the aisles.

    Map
  2. 11:00 AM

    Philadelphia's Magic Gardens

    Sights · $$

    Isaiah Zagar's maze of mosaic, mirror and bottle glass on South Street; book a timed ticket, closed Tuesdays.

    Map
  3. 12:30 PM

    Sang Kee Peking Duck House

    Eat · $$$

    Chinatown's roast-duck institution: Peking duck, wonton noodle soup and roast pork over rice.

    Map
  4. 2:30 PM

    Belmont Plateau and Boxers' Trail

    Outdoors

    Fairmount Park loop with famous skyline-over-meadow view and Joe Frazier's training trails.

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  5. 7:30 PM

    Vernick Food & Drink

    Eat · $$$$

    Greg Vernick's Rittenhouse dining room: wood-oven toasts, raw bar, roast chicken. Closed Sun and Mon.

    Map
  6. 9:30 PM

    Harp & Crown

    Drinks · $$$

    Handsome, buzzy bar a short walk from dinner, strong cocktail list and late-night energy without going far.

    Map

Day 2: Bella Vista, the Barnes, Mish Mish

A slow South Philly morning, Cambodian cooking at Mawn, an hour at the Barnes, then dinner at Mish Mish and a nightcap at Grace & Proper in Bella Vista.

  1. 9:30 AM

    The Bakery

    Coffee · $$

    Neighbourhood bakery-café in deep South Philly for coffee and something warm from the oven.

    Map
  2. 12:30 PM

    Mawn

    Eat · $$$

    Phila Lorn's Cambodian kitchen on 9th Street: start with the kuy teav noodle soup and share the grilled meats.

    Map
  3. 2:30 PM

    The Barnes Foundation

    Sights · $$

    Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse and Picasso hung wall to wall in Albert Barnes's own arrangements; book ahead.

    Map
  4. 7:30 PM

    Mish Mish

    Eat · $$$

    Buzzy East Passyunk dining room for a long dinner of shared plates; book ahead.

    Map
  5. 9:30 PM

    Grace & Proper

    Drinks · $$

    Bella Vista cocktail and vermouth bar with a European café feel, a short cab from Passyunk.

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Day 3: Fishtown, Suraya, and a long Italian dinner

The city's most interesting new neighborhood earns a full day: a wine-bar coffee shop to open, Lebanese mezze at Suraya for lunch, and Emilia's Italian cooking for dinner before a low-key finish at Murph's.

  1. 9:30 AM

    Forin

    Coffee · $$

    Wine-bar-meets-coffee-shop a block from Emilia, a sharp, unhurried start to the day.

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  2. 12:30 PM

    Suraya

    Eat · $$$$

    Acclaimed Lebanese in Fishtown, Suraya's garden and mezze spread is a proper lunch destination.

    Map
  3. 7:30 PM

    Emilia

    Eat · $$$

    East Kensington Italian for pasta and a long dinner, a short walk from where the day began.

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  4. 9:30 PM

    Murph's Bar

    Drinks · $$

    Murph's Bar is a well-loved Fishtown spot, the right place to land after a big dinner, well before midnight.

    Map

Where to stay

Every neighbourhood worth staying in, compared

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